Member of the jury Kerstin Strauss, Creative Director, Strauss

(It was all present, the future took place solely in science fiction)

The womenswear collection “Es war alles Gegenwart, die Zukunft fand ausschließlich in Science Fiction statt” visualises youthful emotionality, impulsiveness, euphoria and contradiction. Contrasting colours, shapes and materials, volumes and depths, transparency and opulence characterise this collection of experimental textile and knitted designs.

Finally, she overcomes gender boundaries without seeming insincere. Despite the sophistication, pieces such as the T-shirts certainly have commercial appeal. A look that is full of personality and is perfectly in tune with lockdowns, loungewear and the urgent need for casual clothing that incorporates new details, individual fashion statements, and sophistication. From the distinctive idea to the outstanding documentation and the innovative cuts, this is an excellent piece of work!  A great talent with huge potential in a strong cohort.
Member of the jury Kristian Schuller, Photographer, Berlin/New York

1 / 9 – Kollektion „Slow Curve“ von Annika Klaas. © European Fashion Award FASH by SDBI 1 2 ... 9 ►

I like to fathom the formal and technical potential of knitwear for the development and implementation of innovative concepts, whether for new designs – with a subtle interplay of structures and colors – or for shapes, that would not be manufacturable in classic tailoring. Knitting technology offers innovations in the production of knitwear, and computercontrolled knitting machines can reduce human work to a minimum, thus enabling a local production once more, as the Adidas Speedfactory demonstrates. This leads to new possibilities of design, like customization. My ideal is to use this potential for a holistic and sustainable design approach, also in interdisciplinary teams.
My bachelor graduation collection “Slow Curve” is inspired by the interaction of flat forms and bold colours in the work of the artist Ellsworth Kelly. (“Blue over Blue, 1963” or “Blue Red Rocker, 1963”). Besides the shape, I have developed diverse knit structures such as two-toned petinet structures, round shapes realized by goring techniques, graphical intarsia and plated elements and multi-gauge net structures. For the Realisation I programmed the most modern knitting machines. Color contrasts are added by asymmetrical embroideries and facings. Soft wool qualities are contrasted with lustrous silk and viscose elements. The womenswear collection consists of 30 outfits, of which six have been realized. Annika Klaas

Annika Klaas has designed a very stringent, stylish and modern collection with a clear concept that she communicate very well. The skillfully reduced silhouette and filigree details are convincing. Her small collection goes into depth, especially in her own construction and production of knitwear with the latest knitting technology. A fresh and at the same time very mature, accurate and balanced work with outstanding technical implementation. These qualities are also reflected in her other projects such as the development of a three-dimensional knitted typography, knitted sneakers or a trade fair stand at the Pitti Filati 2016.
Annika Klaas independent creativity comes from her intensive engagement with free art, her experience in costume design and her perception of the beauty of everyday life. Her focused creativity gets to the point, similar to an engineer. She takes on the role of the designer, has a recognizable purposeful way of working, questions constructively. Annika Klaas is already working professionally at a high level on every detail and could breathe new life into classics such as a Punto Milano dress. She creates fashion that is more than a short satisfaction after the purchase.
Annika Klaas knows what she wants: to work for relevant innovations in production and manufacturing, a holistic and sustainable design and thus for an urgently needed renewal of fashion. Already today she succeeds in sharpening her eye for quality, innovation and profundity, thus giving fashion more value and appreciation again.

Kollektion „The Bonnie Situation“ von Maria Presser. Foto: © European Fashion Award FASH / SDBI 1 2 ... 12 ►

Maria Presser: “Don’t be a square” is the slogan of my menswear collection “The Bonnie Situation”. The outfits play with the expectations of the viewer in order to encourage a more sophisticated perception of fashion beyond stereotypes. Postmodern stylistic devices such as deconstruction based on the model of literary examples are translated into a fashion context: Preppy style and high-visibility workwear meet and merge as two hierarchically opposing genres. Other design elements are quotes and allusions, overdrafts and surprise effects such as new combinations of various patterns. The collection thrives on this “intertextuality” and thus ties in with the work of cult director Quentin Tarantino, whose movies such as “Pulp Fiction” (1994) became prototypes of postmodern film aesthetics. The intensive study of the arts and socio-cultural contexts is an important part of my work on modern, sophisticated and progressive menswear. I strive for the deconstruction of oppositions such as conceptual and commercial in the fashion industry, a novel form of reception and review of fashion and a further development in the self-image of the fashion designer.

With the combination of two supposedly opposing genres, Maria Presser designed an ironic and mature dialogue between trendy streetwear and traditional business fashion. Dressed, it immediately looks cool, natural and discreetly refined.
The theme of “deconstruction” has been cleverly chosen, argued and presented. The cut is new and creative, the manufacturing is impeccable. The unstructured garment impresses with its very good fit, casualness and excellent wearing comfort. The multi-faceted implementation convinces with playfully light but consistent approaches. The subtle choice of colors and fabrics also shows that men can be fashion-conscious without immediately being perceived as fashion victim.
Maria Presser has her own signature, the ability to make decisions, is willing to perform and clearly wants to work on herself. In her bachelor collection she has found a very mature balance on a high professional level. The work challenges us to re-evaluate what we know and thus fits in with the times. This is how Maria Presser succeeds in achieving her goal: To sharpen the view of viewers and wearers of meaningful fashion, quality and innovation. It thus also offers the frozen clothing industry important impulses to find a way into the 21st century.

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EKMA (abbreviation for Ektoplasma) is a joint project between textile and fashion design. The womenswear collection is influenced by the fields of spiritism and mediumism. Especially the documented materialization phenomena by parapsychologist Albert von Schrenck-Notzing became a source of inspiration. Through textile manipulation the fabrics received new haptic and visual properties. An interaction of simple and opulent silhouettes, milky-translucent layers, moiré effects and flowing surfaces.

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The “Steife Brise” (Gale) menswear collection is a shelter from the storm of social media. The collection accompanies men on their quest for self-discovery and truth while also highlighting everything that makes them unique. With its balanced proportions, high-quality merino wool, superior craftsmanship, and classic colors, the collection makes a statement of understatement. The soft, comfortable knit, was made by Hannah Kliewer herself and appeals directly to the senses. The collection’s over-sized collars, which are inspired by life jackets, contain foam in the edges and corners which adds extra dimension and enhances the wearer’s silhouette. These collars also offer them a sense of protection and comfort as they follow their path to self-discovery. Zippers highlight the collection’s emphasis on unity. The sense of security they create gives the wearer the courage to try new things and the energy and curiosity to navigate the modern world. A woolen hug in a digital landscape that is cold and vast.

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Inspired by her many different experiences, travels, adventures, and interests, both real and virtual, Lea Schweinfurth created this collection for woman and men. Raw impressions of Spanish flamenco dancers and matadors, Indian bridal dress, Japanese kimonos, British tweed, 70s rock stars, and 90s hip-hop artists were transformed into collages in the style of artist Jean Michelle Basquiat. Raw and direct, illustrative and intuitive; it is the whole world in six outfits – “All_In”. A combination of prints, patterns, and colors are used to bring the graphic silhouettes to life. The clothing becomes a canvas and is painted with dyes and pigments. Every look is a different identity, a personal masquerade. The fabrics used are up-cycled, from overstocks or were certified by the GOTS ecolabel. Collages brought to life.

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The deep human desire to look beautiful is the inspiration for the “XO” womenswear collection (XO is a social media greeting for “hugs and kisses”). Andreas Stang uses flashy jewelry and witty exaggeration to express this feeling. The collection is full of contrasts, which push and pull against each other. Thousands of jewelry links and metal chains, all attached by hand, are drawn to each other by a large number of magnets which force the wearer to interact with them. Even more hooks and chains, huge brocade bows, pieces of fabric and faux fur, can be attached to the magnets, allowing the pieces to be interchanged and customized. With this collection, Andreas Stang hopes to inspire wearers to interact as real people rather than only as consumers. XO

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The art of Perestroika and Russian Constructivism inspired this womenswear collection.
Both brought art into everyday life hoping that this would cause a renewal. Fashion, like Rodchenko’s or Stepanova’s prozodezhda (every day clothing) also had a place in this art. Every outfit in Sonja Litichevskaya’s collection creates a new image by combining typical elements from each movement, such as bright colors, geometric patterns, bold shapes, symbols of revolution like the white star of the future, the arrows and lightning bolts of transformative change, and slogans like “Спасём Мир” (Save the World). Important elements include iconic pieces from each era, including motorcycle jackets, overalls, bags, straps, and buckles. Screen printing is used to display the desire for handmade products.

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Thanks to globalization and international networks, life can now take place in a “placeless space” with an endless stream of work, in many different cities, and with the loved ones far away. So near and yet so far. These changing times stir up a desire for comfort, assurance, simplicity, and contact.
With its classic cuts, high-quality materials, and simple colors, this collection for woman and men offers the wearer comfort and intimacy, protection and belonging. The blending of touch and movement, and fabric and cut creates unique archetypes. Some designs have been embossed on panels of fabric. These subtle clothes give the wearer space to identify with and change them to suit their own style. Many of the designs bring to mind a coat, while others cocoon like a blanket. These are clothes to be seen, touched, and experienced with all the senses. Feel the soft down, smell the midnight blue wool, and hear the rustle of the finely striped poplin – clothing that stirs the emotions.

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The unisex “Face to Face” collection is a colorful and fun take on self-image. The image of the self has been idealized since ancient times, but selfies have become a global mass phenomenon – a balancing act between authenticity, presentation, and idealization. In a never-ending stream of narcissistic, exhibitionist, unusual images, faces become masks and facial expressions become codes. This collection incorporating denim, velvet, jersey, and mesh seeks to raise our awareness of the person sitting opposite us and give us the courage to look them in the face. The collection also plays with exaggeration and larger-than-life images: colossal eyes and emojis made from portraits of the designer are used to create bold prints and appliqué. The inspiration for one design comes from Andy Warhol’s camouflage self-portrait. The figure-hugging silhouettes are inspired by the look of video game avatars, creating a stronger, more self-confident personality that gives the wearer the courage to show their true face.

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The “Beauty & Duty” womenswear collection focuses on the aesthetics of imperfection. It demonstrates how fashion can increase in value as it develops a patina. This offers a whole new approach to sustainable fashion. The aim of the collection is to help consumers achieve a deeper awareness of their clothing. The inspiration for the collection came from the post-war period. At the same time, Christian Dior was showcasing his “New Look” in Paris in 1947. The “Beauty & Duty” collection showcased draped fabrics and cinched waistlines that bring the rebirth of Haute Couture to mind.
The seven dresses and blouses, which are made from white silk batiste, satin or poplin, exhibit the very highest level of craftsmanship. Belts made from old copper draw attention to the beauty of the patina. The aprons are made from Lefa, a material formed from recycled leather remnants, which achieves a certain flexibility through the lasered bar pattern. This material crumples and creases, changing color and shape. These would-be imperfections come together to create a unique, entirely new aesthetic.

1 / 9 – Photo: © Franco P Tettamanti / SDBI 1 2 ... 9 ►

The “Beauty & Duty” womenswear collection focuses on the aesthetics of imperfection. It demonstrates how fashion can increase in value as it develops a patina. This offers a whole new approach to sustainable fashion. The aim of the collection is to help consumers achieve a deeper awareness of their clothing. The inspiration for the collection came from the post-war period. At the same time, Christian Dior was showcasing his “New Look” in Paris in 1947. The “Beauty & Duty” collection showcased draped fabrics and cinched waistlines that bring the rebirth of Haute Couture to mind.
The seven dresses and blouses, which are made from white silk batiste, satin or poplin, exhibit the very highest level of craftsmanship. Belts made from old copper draw attention to the beauty of the patina. The aprons are made from Lefa, a material formed from recycled leather remnants, which achieves a certain flexibility through the lasered bar pattern. This material crumples and creases, changing color and shape. These would-be imperfections come together to create a unique, entirely new aesthetic.

Photo: © Franco P Tettamanti / SDBI 1 2 ... 5 ►

The catastrophic effects of the financial crisis and the wars against IS and in Ukraine form the starting point for “Ungehorsam” (Disobedience), a 13-piece men’s collection. This collection seeks to question how people behave in systems and the consequences of blind disobedience. The title comes from Oscar Wilde, who wrote: “Disobedience, in the eyes of anyone who has read history, is man’s original virtue.”
Decommissioned military clothing was deconstructed and interpreted using new silhouettes and materials including mesh, jersey, and wool fabrics—a procedure called “upcycling”. These overalls are reimagined with the dropped crotch of jodphur trousers and with newly constructed sleeves. New surfaces are also achieved using waterproofing, a variety of washes and abrasion with sandpaper and rotary tools. The urban look is topped off with baseball caps paired with silk scarves and sneakers.

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The boundaries between art and fashion, countries and cultures, East and West are blurring. A new generation with an international identity is emerging. A new generation like Shiva’s sons. Shiva’s sons belong to India’s Rabari tribe and carry the heat of the East with them. These courageous young men grew up in the West, surrounded by values of innovation, sterile functionalism, and technology. Just as the god Shiva destroyed and recreated the Earth through dance, the marginalized but life-embracing youths of immigrant communities find refuge in hip hop. It gives them strength, courage, and hope.
“The Sons of Shiva”—a men’s collection comprising 8 pieces—illustrates this new spirit of internationalism. Hip hop details are combined with sapphire-blue PVC leather and hand-cut decorative elements taken from the rich culture of India’s Rabari tribe. There are no borders any longer.

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Sometimes reality is not what it seems. Fashion too is moving further and further away from what it used to be. Jean Baudrillard’s theory of hyperreality is the starting point for the theoretical and practical work, which aims to call attention towards the “hype” phenomenon and question the fashion system. Classic menswear designs are made less familiar using inspiration taken from found objects. This 29-piece men’s collection demonstrates the essence of fashion that transcends seasons, trends, and style directions, and in so doing responds to the idea of hyperreality. The combination of natural and synthetic materials represents the interface between tradition and future. Suit trousers meet work wear details, a biker leather jacket shows formal elements, a knitted jumper is blended seamlessly with an artificially coated fabric. Minimalism at first glance—and refinement at second.

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“Division by Zero” is an experimental unisex collection that makes the principle of a paradox visible. It’s a statement that clearly contradicts itself, yet could still be true. Just as it’s impossible to share an apple with people who don’t exist, a number that can be divided by zero is a mathematical paradox.
Silhouettes, materials and details are based on digital “yes”s and “no”s, ones and zeros. The key element of the collection is a simple rectangle. It’s made elastic by incisions and fitted to the body in complex structures and silhouettes, all made without producing any waste. The graphic aesthetic is heightened by black, white and red colours. The idea of relativeness is central to the collection. The same item of clothing looks different on a woman than it does on a man. The “Division by Zero” concept was also used to design a digital pattern, costume jewelery, shoes, and a size-adjustable backpack.