FASH 2019 – Finalist / 5. July 2021

European Fashion Award FASH presented at Frankfurt Fashion Week

European Fashion Award FASH presented at Frankfurt Fashion Week
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FASH 2021 / 5. July 2021

Aylin Tomta

1st Prize
European Fashion Award – FASH 2021
Hylemorph Identities are fluid moments. The starting point for this final project is Aristotle’s question of how ‘becoming’ is possible in the sense of creation and change. He believed that ‘being’ is created from a compound of form (‘morphe’) and matter (‘hyle’). The collection “Hylemorph” questions the stereotypes and boundaries of gender identities, that is, gender as a social and cultural construct. The strength of fashion lies in its ability to shift meanings. Rather than just man and woman, it offers a diversity of gender identities. With its help, it is possible to cross boundaries in one’s self-expression and explore different nuances. It is a highly relevant everyday form of “doing gender”. And therein lies its queer potential. It has the ability to change our thinking and thus also our society.The starting point for this 20-piece gender-fluid menswear collection are the archetypes of classic men’s fashion and haute couture. In a move to create new forms for suits, culottes, shirts, polo shirts, blousons, coats and trenchcoats, the classic silhouettes are dissolved and implied only by seams, stratified or printed, whilst sections are inserted in pattern pieces. This experiment with the spatial impact of clothing paves the way for completely new perceptions.
Collection

Jury’s appraisal
 Aylin Tomta has delved into the depths of pattern design to create perfectly crafted and sculpted garments with new details, individual fashion statements and sophistication: stylish, chic and cool! A powerful collection that is full of poetry. It invites the eye to linger and speaks to our emotions. Her exaggerated fashion overcomes tradition to conjure up a completely new and modern male image that is masculine without appearing affected or sliding into crossdressing. Although these are showpieces, they make the wearer feel comfortable and look good. The examination of gender as a social construct is at the heart of this work. Her understanding of fashion moves beyond heteronormative ideas where fashion is all about sexual, that is, heterosexual seduction. The documentation of the creative process and the fashion photos are among the best. It is very rare to encounter such a mature and on-point final project. It is also very pleasing and impressive to see how this extremely talented designer has evolved since winning the European Fashion Award FASH 2017. Again, this is very rare. Paris is calling! Member of the jury Carl Tillessen (Chefanalyst, Deutsches Mode-Institut)
Education Masters – FH Bielefeld University of Applied Sciences, Prof. Meiken Rau
Prize EUR 2,000
Contact aylin.tomta@googlemail.com / https://werkschau.gestaltung-bielefeld.de/hylemorph
Download Web: www.sdbi.de/download/2021-Aylin-Tomta-web.zip
Print: www.sdbi.de/download/2021-Aylin-Tomta-print.zip

FASH 2021 / 5. July 2021

Lars Witkowski

1st Prize
European Fashion Award – FASH 2021
Category Students
Oddity 1400
The 14th century “Golden Panel” from the Benedictine Abbey of Lüneburg has been restored to its former glory and has been on display at the Landesmuseum Niedersachsen since 2019. It is the starting point for the summer collection “Oddity 1400”. The interior of the “Golden Panel” conceals 23 miracle chambers which were once filled with precious relics and treasures made from rubies, emeralds and pearls, exotic silk fabrics and scriptures.The thistle in the altarpiece symbolises Mary’s milk and is said to have healing powers. This is the source of the digital print that characterises the collection. The green is derived from the representations of nature, the cobalt blue, red and white from the robes depicted on the altarpiece. The elongated silhouettes display layering with a kaftan shirt, dress, trousers and a coverall, made from organic cotton fabrics and jersey. They draw their inspiration from the vestments on the “Golden Panel” and are gender neutral.
Collection

Jury’s appraisal Lars Witkowski has successfully and convincingly translated his inspiration from the 14th century “Golden Panel” into a modern collection. It meets the current need for smart, relaxed fashion that hovers between the chic and the casual. This project interprets robes as traditional garments and in doing so, offers a stylish alternative on the hotter days of summer. The styling is just as compelling.

Member of the jury Kerstin Strauss, Creative Director, Strauss
Education 10th semester – Hochschule Hannover, University of Applied Sciences and Arts, Prof. Martina Glomb
Prize EUR 1,00
Contact lars.witkowski@gmx.de / @_Lars_Witkowski
Download Web: www.sdbi.de/download/2021-Lars-Witkowski-web
Print: www.sdbi.de/download/2021-Lars-Witkowski-print.zip

FASH 2021 / 5. July 2021

Helena Wieser

1st Prize
European Fashion Award – FASH 2021
Category Bachelor
Wollust Itchy and fluffy, dominance and subjugation. The collection “Wollust” explores the wool fetish of men and women and transforms selected inclinations into an aesthetic that also appeals to the general public. The “Woolies’” predilection for corsets, balaclavas, bondage, cable stitch, rib knits and specific colours have been translated into six outfits. In line with the fetish, the outfits are knitted in mohair, lambswool and alpaca yarns. Metal rings are a reference to the practices of bondage and S&M. The garments are all fully fashioned and are therefore made without waste, either on a manual knitting machine or by hand.
Collection

Jury statement The renewal of fashion is often rooted in the underground scene. Take, for example, Gaultier’s bra for Madonna or Claudia Skoda, who in the 1970s put the sexy into knitwear, and whose work can be admired in the “dressed to thrill” exhibition at Berlin’s Kulturforum. In this instance, the “Woolies” have a fetish for wool. Helena Wieser’s examination of knitwear is genuinely new and provides an important stimulus for a genre that is all too often bogged down by tradition. Knitwear is no longer just warm but is also light and fashionable. The onlooker feels compelled to hold, touch and feel these garments. This collection is nothing short of inspiring and whets the appetite for fashion. No collection can be expected to do more than that.
Member of the jury Joel Horwitz, Design Director, Fila Europe
Education Masters – Burg Giebichenstein University of Art and Design Halle / Prof. Lars Paschke
Prize EUR  2,000
Contact helenawieser@gmail.com / @helenawieser_
Download Web: www.sdbi.de/download/2021-Helena-Wieser-web.zip
Print: www.sdbi.de/download/2021-Helena-Wieser-print.zip

FASH 2020 / 5. July 2021

Carla Renée Loose

1st Prize
European Fashion Award – FASH 2020
Category Students
Es war alles Gegenwart, die Zukunft fand ausschließlich in Science Fiction statt

(It was all present, the future took place solely in science fiction)

 In today’s society, the glorification of youth is all around us. It is a symbol of success and efficiency, dynamism and high performance. In a life filled with routine and self-control, we yearn to feel alive again and have a strong desire for youthful passion and emotionality and for living in the moment. And yet, rather than upholding this youthful curiosity and spirit, it is usually reduced to the superficial by the world of mass media and advertising. The inner striving for freedom and authenticity is suppressed by the desire for a security that does not exist; emotions are replaced by consumption. As a consequence, we increasingly move away from who we really are. We convince ourselves that it is better not to have regrets than to feel too much. A conversation around this contradiction barely takes place, culminating in in a lack of critical expression and protest. As a result, we experience conformity rather than enthusiasm, imitation rather than the genuine, laziness rather than originality – all of which are diametrically opposed to our incessant longing for youthful exuberance. If we maintain an unbiased youthful outlook, listen to our desire to savour the here and now and think, feel, and act intuitively, we can preserve our freedoms without losing sight of who we are and without relinquishing our powers of self-determination. We can acknowledge that current norms, ideals and conventions are not the only option, and we can start carving out new alternatives and shaping our future.

The womenswear collection “Es war alles Gegenwart, die Zukunft fand ausschließlich in Science Fiction statt” visualises youthful emotionality, impulsiveness, euphoria and contradiction. Contrasting colours, shapes and materials, volumes and depths, transparency and opulence characterise this collection of experimental textile and knitted designs.
Collection

Jury’s appraisal Carla Renée Loose has clear conceptual and creative strengths. Her profound, on-point, and cleverly articulated analysis of the glorification of youth is compelling and provides some important answers for society. This is also because her work is founded on her research of classical literature, which has become quite a rarity. In doing so, she has created a theoretical work that merits its own reward. Her artistic illustrations display her creative prowess in a modern guise. She takes hold of our roots and carries them into the present day, creating distinctive clothing that women like to wear; clothing that is coupled with a youthfulness embedded in the here and now.
Member of the jury Joachim Schirrmacher, Creative Consultant
Education Bachelor – HTW University of Applied Sciences Berlin, Prof. Anke Schlöder
Master – Kunsthochschule Berlin Weißensee / Prof. Patrick Rietz
Prize EUR 2,000
Contact carla.loose@outlook.de / @carlarenee_
Download Web: www.sdbi.de/download/2021-Carla-Loose-web.zip
Print: www.sdbi.de/download/2021-Carla-Loose-print.zip

FASH 2020 / 5. July 2021

Erato Fotopoulos

1st Prize
European Fashion Award – FASH 2020
Category Bachelor
[fi:] The collection [fi:] is an interpretation of the philosophical concept of fluidity. Philosopher Heraclitus coined the term “panta rhei” which describes life as a river: Being is becoming and becoming is being. Age-old definitions become blurred, familiar forms melt away.Archetypes derived from the looks of Acid jazz bands and their freely flowing music, such as Digable Planets, Galliano, and Brand New Heavies, form the foundation of the “static” element of each outfit. This is complemented with a fluid, transformable aspect in which the volumes along the straps can be shifted freely around the body. There is no right or wrong. The clear texture of a classical tartan (digital print on cotton) is distorted by reflective foil or alienated by random bleaching. With the garments in constant motion, the tartan pattern loses its texture and becomes blurred. The thermochromic colour (screen print) reacts to body temperature, changing from petrol when low to neon green as it rises. Depending on the wearer and situation, the colours thus also become fluid.
Collection

Jury’s appraisal Erato Fotopoulos creates something that is only rarely achieved: she combines sportswear with the sophistication of fashion. As she experiments with volume and bold prints, she balances the casual with the chic and does so with such virtuosity that it feels entirely natural. Speaking to the emotions, the garments are photogenic and make the wearer feel modern and cool. They are as pleasant and comfortable as pyjamas, yet the wearer looks and feels well dressed. An art reminiscent of designer Haider Ackermann.

Finally, she overcomes gender boundaries without seeming insincere. Despite the sophistication, pieces such as the T-shirts certainly have commercial appeal. A look that is full of personality and is perfectly in tune with lockdowns, loungewear and the urgent need for casual clothing that incorporates new details, individual fashion statements, and sophistication. From the distinctive idea to the outstanding documentation and the innovative cuts, this is an excellent piece of work!  A great talent with huge potential in a strong cohort.
Member of the jury Kristian Schuller, Photographer, Berlin/New York
Education Bachelor – FH Bielefeld University of Applied Sciences / Prof. Meiken Rau
Prize EUR 2,000
Contact
Download Web: www.sdbi.de/download/2021-Erato-Fotopoulos-web.zip
Print: www.sdbi.de/download/2021-Erato-Fotopoulos-print.zip

FASH 2020 / 5. July 2021

Margarita Rozhkova

1st Prize
European Fashion Award – FASH 2020
Category Students
Moiré Physique The collection Moiré Physique explores how a moiré look can be achieved through light and shade, and how digital moiré can potentially serve as camouflage in an age of constant surveillance and threatened privacy. The moiré effect is created by the machine-knitting, weaving and screen printing of Georgette, cotton, and viscose. Two similar screens are overlaid for the moiré, whilst the women’s fashion of the mid-19th century is transferred onto the silhouette of menswear.
Collection

Jury’s appraisal Margarita Rozhkova is a virtuoso of materials, creating a small sensation with each and every one, be it knitted, Georgette or mohair. A distinctive, powerful project displaying excellent technical ability and expressing the exceptional maturity of Margarita Rozhkova who already has an MA in American Studies as well as plenty of experience in the working world.
Member of the jury Jenny Capitain, among others Fashion Director Vogue US
Education 6th semester – College of Fine Arts in Berlin / Gast-Prof. Franziska Schreiber, Prof. Lars Paschke
Prize EUR 1,000
Contact margarita.rozhkowa@gmail.com / www.margaritarozhkowa.org
Download Web: www.sdbi.de/download/2021-Margarita-Rozhkova-web.zip
Print: www.sdbi.de/download/2021-Margarita-Rozhkova-print.zip