FASH 2013 SEXes
European Fashion Award FASH 2013
|Zwei Herzen schlagen, Ach! in meiner Brust.||
“Different though the sexes are, they intermix. In every human being a vacillation from one sex to the other takes place, and often it is only the clothes that keep the male and female likeness, while underneath the sex is the very opposite of what it is above.” In her novel “Orlando” Virginia Woolf describes the theme of the unisex collection “Zwei Herzen schlagen, Ach! in meiner Brust.” (Two hearts, alas, are dwelling in my breast” loosely based on Goethe). An androgynous creature between man and woman has always existed in the history of mankind; culminating in the desire to fuse together with the body of one’s beloved. Fashion – as well as pop music – is marked by the play with taboos and gender roles, particularly because they can lend even run-of-the-mill fashion a pervasive effect. Despite all their calculation the images have a subversive power. New role models are created in between provocation and fascination, amusement and aversion. Gender roles are shifted until they dissolve. The 28-piece collection illustrates this act of transition.
|Jury Statement||Anet Schmieder and Magdalena Stark take many risks in their collection “Zwei Herzen schlagen, Ach! In meiner Brust” (Two hearts, alas, are dwelling in my breast” loosely based on Goethe). It embodies a challenging strength. They toy with the codes of sub-culture and social taboos in an excuberant fireworks display. On purpose. Today’s flood of information creates a hunger for intensity in us. Anet Schmieder and Magdalena Stark refuse to subscribe to transparency and quick categorization to tear us out of the randomness of the always new. They force us to take a stand. They are successful because the designs seem unique and familiar at the same time. Their customers are found in cities like London.
The collection is very consistent and highly aesthetic despite the plethora of influences and colors. Such balance is proof of a high level of skill – also in styling. Their use of color and the variety of materials and finishing techniques is brilliant: padded, quilted, colored, printed, painted and opulent hand-embroideries. They provide the proof that you have to create radical impressions to be recognized as a designer. This is further enhanced by a very well written scientific documentation, and such a level of quality is a rare occurrence among most fashion designers. — Member of the Jury: Michael Sontag, Designer, Berlin
University of Art and Design Halle
Prof. Thomas Greis, Prof. Joachim Schielicke
|Media||A Shaded View on Fashion: 3.2.2013: „European Fashion Award 2013 at ISPO – and the Winners are…“|