FASH 2013 SEXes / 19. January 2013

Tanja Schmidt


1st Prize
European Fashion Award FASH 2013

Team Tanja Schmidt
Philip Ruzinski

Who’s wearing the pants?

Who’s wearing the pants? The denim collection by Tanja Schmidt and Philip Rudzinski is an ironic discussion of the cliché of the male image. It questions masculinity from a male and female point of view. The focus is on pants as a symbol of power. It combines the roots of denim as workwear with today’s baggy styles. The impression of sliding pants is a commentary on today’s situation in which men are struggling to keep the pants on. The design team played with typical male characteristics like chest hair, muscular body types or even postures affected by work. The 8-piece unisex collection has a ironic effect, while it is provocative on women; yet it conveys confidence for both. Masculinity ready to wear.


Jury Statement The Jeans Coutoure by Tanja Schmidt and Philip Rudzinski is professional in every detail: the patterns are innovative, the silhouettes impressive, the tailoring impeccable, the washes leave no wishes unfulfilled, and the selection of details and accessories is clever. In addition to its perfection the project is full of energy, humor and irony. All aspects are very well balanced without being obliging.
The small unisex collection “Wer hat die Hosen an?” (‘Who’s wearing the pants?’)delivers an impressive response to the search for a new male image, the task of the European Fashion Award FASH 2013. The designs look natural on both men and women.
Tanja Schmidt and Philip Rudzinski succeeded in creating something rather rare in the high-turnover denim industry: new jeans shapes that inspire. They provide the industry with urgently needed stimulation. It is even more impressive, since few students work closely with denim.
They are also masters of the art of gaining attention for their abilities with the help of a meaningful project. At the same time, they collaborate with companies like Birkenstock, Calik Denim and Hecking Denim to turn their vision into reality. An extraordinarily mature performance by students. — Member of the Jury: Joachim Schirrmacher, Creative Consultant, Berlin

Education 6. Semester Bachelor
Hochschule Hannover
Prof. Martina Glomb

Contact info@balagans.de
www.balagans.de

Media  A Shaded View on Fashion: 3.2.2013: „European Fashion Award 2013 at ISPO – and the Winners are…“

FASH 2013 SEXes / 19. January 2013

Philip Rudzinski


1st Price
European Fashion Award FASH 2013

Team Tanja Schmidt
Philip Ruzinski

Who’s wearing the pants?

Who’s wearing the pants? The denim collection by Philip Rudzinski and Tanja Schmidt is an ironic discussion of the cliché of the male image. It questions masculinity from a male and female point of view. The focus is on pants as a symbol of power. It combines the roots of denim as workwear with today’s baggy styles. The impression of sliding pants is a commentary on today’s situation in which men are struggling to keep the pants on. The design team played with typical male characteristics like chest hair, muscular body types or even postures affected by work. The 8-piece unisex collection has a ironic effect, while it is provocative on women; yet it conveys confidence for both. Masculinity ready to wear.


Jury Statement The Jeans Coutoure by Tanja Schmidt and Philip Rudzinski is professional in every detail: the patterns are innovative, the silhouettes impressive, the tailoring impeccable, the washes leave no wishes unfulfilled, and the selection of details and accessories is clever. In addition to its perfection the project is full of energy, humor and irony. All aspects are very well balanced without being obliging.
The small unisex collection “Wer hat die Hosen an?” (‘Who’s wearing the pants?’)delivers an impressive response to the search for a new male image, the task of the European Fashion Award FASH 2013. The designs look natural on both men and women.
Tanja Schmidt and Philip Rudzinski succeeded in creating something rather rare in the high-turnover denim industry: new jeans shapes that inspire. They provide the industry with urgently needed stimulation. It is even more impressive, since few students work closely with denim.
They are also masters of the art of gaining attention for their abilities with the help of a meaningful project. At the same time, they collaborate with companies like Birkenstock, Calik Denim and Hecking Denim to turn their vision into reality. An extraordinarily mature performance by students. — Member of the Jury: Joachim Schirrmacher, Creative Consultant, Berlin

Education 6. Semester Bachelor
Hochschule Hannover
Prof. Martina Glomb

Contact info@balagans.de
www.balagans.de

Media A Shaded View on Fashion: 3.2.2013: „European Fashion Award 2013 at ISPO – and the Winners are…“

FASH 2013 SEXes / 19. January 2013

Lisa Alessandra Sänger


2nd Price
European Fashion Award FASH 2013

The boy was brightly decorated

It is no longer considered scandalous when women dress like men. On the flipside the boundaries are a tighter; the results should not appear strained. The men’s collection “The boy was brightly decorated” merges and transmutes the ostentatios worlds of hiphop and haute couture. The silhouette is defined by hiphop styling with its square, oversized tops and wide, low-slung pants. Haute couture supplies the materials and techniques, such as gold silk, smocked velve and textures such as quilted and plisseed fabrics. All this contrasts with washed denim. The reinterpretation results in a harmonious synthesis of streetwear and haute couture, rebellion and elegance, grace and aggression. Men and women participate in the female and male aspect, respectively. Fashion changes society.


Jury Statement The Hiphop Couture by Lisa Alessandra Sänger is a very clearly focused, small collection, a feat that only few students succeed in. She took great analytical care in selecting the points of origin, based on her knowledge of fashion history as well as careful observation of the young male target group. She conveyed the aura of Haute Couture into young men’s fashion with fresh proportions in an impressive and subtle manner.
The very appealing and extremely well written documentation provides the reasons for the project and allows outsiders to understand the concept. This is a critical ability for a fashion designer, when it becomes necessary to fight for one’s designs. — Member of the Jury Robb Young, Fashion Journalist and Consultant, London

Education 8. Semester Diplom
University of the Arts Berlin
Prof. Peter Jensen

Contact lisa_saenger@gmx.de

Media  A Shaded View on Fashion: 3.2.2013: „European Fashion Award 2013 at ISPO – and the Winners are…“

FASH 2013 SEXes / 19. January 2013

Tim Labenda


2nd Price
European Fashion Award FASH 2013

Grenzgänger

The collection “Grenzgänger“ (crossover artists) is based on observation of men aged between 18 and 28, who consider themselves heterosexuals, yet are fascinated by or even open to homosexual „slip-ups“, the allure of the forbidden, and simply pure lust. They are the crossover artists, who lives and acts at the boderline of two different worlds. Just like Oscar Wilde, Egon Schiele or Alfred Kinsey long before them. Yet despite their uninhibited lifestyle, they often battle with insecurity and emotional chaos. The elegant-austere collection consisting of 25 modern interpretations of classic men’s fashions made of luxurious materials like wool, mohair, cashmere or leather, illustrates these moments. Sexual tension is reflected by visible, heavy metal zippers, and further strengthened by steel jewelry made by Arne Soltau. These are tools for the crossover artist to drive both men and women crazy.


Jury Statement Tim Labenda presents a very mature men’s collection. With his flair for Zeitgeist he is able to absorb and analyse desires and sentiments, and condense them into an impressive collection. He shows how commercial men’s fashion can evolve. The industry generally sticks to classic silhouettes in trendy colors. Tim Labenda, on the other hand, applies new cuts with attractive, masculine colors, and adds contrasts and knit elements. All made of the best materials and with the best tailoring. This resulted in a collection with so many facets that there are many different ways to wear it. In addition, he creates a good balance between the new and the familiar; both are deciding factors for success in the market.
Tim Labenda is a master in his craft: patterns, colors, materials, and, a deciding factor today, communication. Internally with strong and consistent mood boards and look books, externally with photography and video. Labenda proves that he can lead a team to reach its goals. A talented and ambitious designer with a global perception, who has the power to leave his mark on a brand. — Member of the Jury Margareta van den Bosch, Creative Adviser, Hennes & Mauritz, Stockholm

Education Bachelor
Pforzheim University
Prof. Johann Stockhammer

Contact info@timlabenda.com
www.timlabenda.com

 Media  A Shaded View on Fashion: 3.2.2013: „European Fashion Award 2013 at ISPO – and the Winners are…“

FASH 2013 SEXes / 19. January 2013

Anet Schmieder


2nd Prize
European Fashion Award FASH 2013

Team Anet Schmieder
Magdalena Stark

Zwei Herzen schlagen, Ach! in meiner Brust.

“Different though the sexes are, they intermix. In every human being a vacillation from one sex to the other takes place, and often it is only the clothes that keep the male and female likeness, while underneath the sex is the very opposite of what it is above.” In her novel “Orlando” Virginia Woolf describes the theme of the unisex collection “Zwei Herzen schlagen, Ach! in meiner Brust.” (Two hearts, alas, are dwelling in my breast” loosely based on Goethe). An androgynous creature between man and woman has always existed in the history of mankind; culminating in the desire to fuse together with the body of one’s beloved. Fashion – as well as pop music – is marked by the play with taboos and gender roles, particularly because they can lend even run-of-the-mill fashion a pervasive effect. Despite all their calculation the images have a subversive power. New role models are created in between provocation and fascination, amusement and aversion. Gender roles are shifted until they dissolve. The 28-piece collection illustrates this act of transition.


Jury Statement Anet Schmieder and Magdalena Stark take many risks in their collection “Zwei Herzen schlagen, Ach! In meiner Brust” (Two hearts, alas, are dwelling in my breast” loosely based on Goethe). It embodies a challenging strength. They toy with the codes of sub-culture and social taboos in an excuberant fireworks display. On purpose. Today’s flood of information creates a hunger for intensity in us. Anet Schmieder and Magdalena Stark refuse to subscribe to transparency and quick categorization to tear us out of the randomness of the always new. They force us to take a stand. They are successful because the designs seem unique and familiar at the same time. Their customers are found in cities like London.
The collection is very consistent and highly aesthetic despite the plethora of influences and colors. Such balance is proof of a high level of skill – also in styling. Their use of color and the variety of materials and finishing techniques is brilliant: padded, quilted, colored, printed, painted and opulent hand-embroideries. They provide the proof that you have to create radical impressions to be recognized as a designer. This is further enhanced by a very well written scientific documentation, and such a level of quality is a rare occurrence among most fashion designers. — Member of the Jury: Michael Sontag, Designer, Berlin

Education Master
University of Art and Design Halle
Prof. Thomas Greis, Prof. Joachim Schielicke

Contact mail@anetschmieder.com
www.anetschmieder.com

 Media A Shaded View on Fashion: 3.2.2013: „European Fashion Award 2013 at ISPO – and the Winners are…“

FASH 2013 SEXes / 19. January 2013

Magdalena Stark


2nd Price
European Fashion Award FASH 2013

Team Anet Schmieder
Magdalena Stark

Zwei Herzen schlagen, Ach! in meiner Brust.

“Different though the sexes are, they intermix. In every human being a vacillation from one sex to the other takes place, and often it is only the clothes that keep the male and female likeness, while underneath the sex is the very opposite of what it is above.” In her novel “Orlando” Virginia Woolf describes the theme of the unisex collection “Zwei Herzen schlagen, Ach! in meiner Brust.” (Two hearts, alas, are dwelling in my breast” loosely based on Goethe). An androgynous creature between man and woman has always existed in the history of mankind; culminating in the desire to fuse together with the body of one’s beloved. Fashion – as well as pop music – is marked by the play with taboos and gender roles, particularly because they can lend even run-of-the-mill fashion a pervasive effect. Despite all their calculation the images have a subversive power. New role models are created in between provocation and fascination, amusement and aversion. Gender roles are shifted until they dissolve. The 28-piece collection illustrates this act of transition.


Jury Statement Anet Schmieder and Magdalena Stark take many risks in their collection “Zwei Herzen schlagen, Ach! In meiner Brust” (Two hearts, alas, are dwelling in my breast” loosely based on Goethe). It embodies a challenging strength. They toy with the codes of sub-culture and social taboos in an excuberant fireworks display. On purpose. Today’s flood of information creates a hunger for intensity in us. Anet Schmieder and Magdalena Stark refuse to subscribe to transparency and quick categorization to tear us out of the randomness of the always new. They force us to take a stand. They are successful because the designs seem unique and familiar at the same time. Their customers are found in cities like London.
The collection is very consistent and highly aesthetic despite the plethora of influences and colors. Such balance is proof of a high level of skill – also in styling. Their use of color and the variety of materials and finishing techniques is brilliant: padded, quilted, colored, printed, painted and opulent hand-embroideries. They provide the proof that you have to create radical impressions to be recognized as a designer. This is further enhanced by a very well written scientific documentation, and such a level of quality is a rare occurrence among most fashion designers. — Member of the Jury: Michael Sontag, Designer, Berlin

Education Master
Burg Giebichenstein, Kunsthochschule Halle
Prof. Thomas Greis, Prof. Joachim Schielicke

Contact mail@magdalena-stark.com
www.magdalena-stark.com

Media A Shaded View on Fashion: 3.2.2013: „European Fashion Award 2013 at ISPO – and the Winners are…“

FASH 2013 SEXes / 19. January 2013

Kyoung eun Hong


Special Mention
European Fashion Award FASH 2013

Insomnia

The men’s collection “Insomnia” is inspired by sleeplessness (lat: insomnia) and its symptoms. Sufferers are exhausted and wide awake, overwrought and lethargic at the same time. The fabrics are covered in hand-cut hole patterns und put together layer upon layer upon layer – just like wearisome thoughts during a sleepless night. The pattern design was inspired by images of a brain in a waking state. The male image is reflected in this parallel world. In a sleepless state the man gives up his traditional role; fashion symbolically dissolves his masculinity. The outer layer was made of red and black neoprene, the inner layer features skin-colored silk, cotton and polyester. The garments are complemented by accessories like sandals molded from black resin, decreasing the speed of movement.


Jury Statement Kyoung eun Hong shows how something as grueling as insomnia can turn into something beautiful. Her collection “Insomnia” thrives on one star: a plain coat with a breathtakingly beautiful hidden hole pattern. The extremely precise work was performed on the shoulder, the section on a garment recognized as the technically most complex, which reflects a high degree of craftsmanship. The focus on this pattern and the good proportions are also impressive. This resulted in a very modern, stylish and artistically impressive small collection. These qualities are offset by a simple collection and simple documentation. — Member of the Jury: Dr. Adelheid Rasche, Sammlung Modebild, Staatliche Museen zu Berlin (Fashion Image Collection – National Museums in Berlin)

Education Diplom
Hochschule für Künste Bremen
Prof. Kai Lehmann

Contact kyoungeun.hong@web.de

Media  A Shaded View on Fashion: 3.2.2013: „European Fashion Award 2013 at ISPO – and the Winners are…“

FASH 2013 SEXes / 19. January 2013

Florian Wowretzko


Special Mention
European Fashion Award FASH 2013

Transform Agianst Norm

The norm is what we know, accept, and understand. The result is stereotyping, industrial monotomy and the lack of role models for a new male image. The men’s collection “Transform gegen Norm” (Transform Against Norm) wants to shatter this notion. To do so, Florian Wowretzko falls back on traditional men’s fashion like quilted textures, tunics, togas or caftans. The skirt, executed in garments like oversized t-shirts, enlongates the upper body and thus emphasizes the ideal V-shape of the male torso. Zippers, removable collars or arms provide many options to modify the four outfits. The all black collection was made with waxed denim and twill, combined with jersey, batiste and chiffon. What is considered feminine becomes masculine.


Jury Statement Florian Wowretzko’s project brims over with strength and energy. The fantastic jacket is a powerful statement thanks to its strong details and its aggressive yet elegant appearance. Everyone wants to try it on and is surprised by its wear comfort. Even though the look is not unfamiliar Florian Wowretzko found a unique solution and a new silhouette, and implemented it with the help of good tailoring. In addition, it reflects his extraordinary flair for proportions and materials. His documentation further shows his high level of creativity. He offers meaningful fashion illustrations as well as a variety of thoughts. The jury hopes that doors will open for Florian Wowretzko, to allow him to further develop and expand his potential.— Member of the Jury: Marcel Herrig, Unicut Design Limited, Shenzhen, China

Education Final project
Berufsfachschule für Mode, Brigitte Kehrer / Training College for Fashion
Eckehard Gersting

Contact info@florian-wowretzko.com
www.florian-wowretzko-blog.com

Media  A Shaded View on Fashion: 3.2.2013: „European Fashion Award 2013 at ISPO – and the Winners are…“