FASH 2008 Attitude
European Fashion Award FASH 2008
A square forms the basis of this fall women’s wear collection. Its objective is a cut without waste. Instead of adapting the pattern to the curved body, “For Square” drapes squares on the body. Approximately 20 percent of the cutting scrap is eliminated in this way. “For Square” provides favorite pieces, which can still be worn in 10 years. In spite of their potential long life, the silhouettes are based on current large-scale cuts that fall straight. The skin color black (dyed in line with the strictest directives) is classic, appropriate for the masses and chic. The fabrics are from “fair trade” and come from organic cultivation in Turkey. They vary between soft and warming single jerseys, robust twill and voluminous knitwear.
About 20 percent waste is created during cutting despite the most modern technology. Melanie Gros solved this often-overlooked problem. Her concept of using rectangular materials to make clothes is very demanding in its realisation. This is all the more reason to praise both her aesthetically and functionally brilliant realisation of this idea. You do not even suspect that the clothes are made of rectangular pieces. And this is the case not just for one outfit, but also for the complete collection; even pants were produced. The work is so strong that it works for different occasions and with different colors.
Certainly: “Green is the new black”, because after all black is color that causes problems for the environment. In spite of this, Melanie Gros achieved a good balance between environment and reality. Black clothes have a higher rate of acceptance, are sold correspondingly well and are worn for a long time. The demanding task to design fashion in line with the needs of the environment and social issues using one’s one attitude was solved independently and simply. And this was done as a clear industrial design. This is an outstanding work, especially for a student in her fourth semester!
Jury Member Ulrike Okbay-Reichert, Head of Buying, Apparel, Otto, Hamburg
Hochschule für Technik und Wirtschaft Berlin / University of Applied Sciences
Prof. Petra Skupin