FASH 2017 Get Real / 28. June 2017
Lea Schweinfurth
| 2nd Prize European Fashion Award – FASH 2017 Category Students |
|
| All_In |
Inspired by her many different experiences, travels, adventures, and interests, both real and virtual, Lea Schweinfurth created this collection for woman and men. Raw impressions of Spanish flamenco dancers and matadors, Indian bridal dress, Japanese kimonos, British tweed, 70s rock stars, and 90s hip-hop artists were transformed into collages in the style of artist Jean Michelle Basquiat. Raw and direct, illustrative and intuitive; it is the whole world in six outfits – “All_In”. A combination of prints, patterns, and colors are used to bring the graphic silhouettes to life. The clothing becomes a canvas and is painted with dyes and pigments. Every look is a different identity, a personal masquerade. The fabrics used are up-cycled, from overstocks or were certified by the GOTS ecolabel. Collages brought to life. |
| Award Ceremony |
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| Jury statement | Lea Schweinfurth has presented a strong, unique view of the “Get Real” theme in her work. She offers an alternative to commercial fashion that is surprising and emotional, full of strong poetry and personality, joy and charming beauty. Instead of the sameness found in trends and social media, she places her trust in the desires, views, thoughts, and goals of the individual. Despite its multiple references, this is a consistent collection featuring perfectly matching colors. The looks work well together and form modules of an personal identity. A unique idea with clever documentation, innovative cuts, and perfect fits – an exceptional piece of work in all respects. Judging panel member: Otto Drögsler, Creative Director at Odeeh |
| Education | 7th semester – Burg Giebichenstein Kunsthochschule Halle (University of Art and Design Halle, Germany), Prof. Joachim Schielicke, Visiting Professor Bianca Koczan, Visiting Professor Dunja Marija Kopi |
| Prize | Cash prize of 1500 euro, exhibition, Public Relations, mentoring program, photos by Franco P. Tettamanti, work displayed on over 200 premium digital posters byWallDecaux in Berlin, Düsseldorf and Munich with over 24 million contacts. |
| Contact | lea.schweinfurth@gmx.de / www.leaschweinfurth.com |
| Download | Web: www.sdbi.de/download/lea-schweinfurth-web.zip Print: www.sdbi.de/download/lea-schweinfurth-print.zip |
FASH 2016 Change / 27. June 2016
Flora Sophie Taubner
| 1st Prize European Fashion Award – FASH 2016 Category Students |
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| Team | Flora Sophie Taubner Lars Dittrich |
| Beauty & Duty |
The “Beauty & Duty” womenswear collection focuses on the aesthetics of imperfection. It demonstrates how fashion can increase in value as it develops a patina. This offers a whole new approach to sustainable fashion. The aim of the collection is to help consumers achieve a deeper awareness of their clothing. The inspiration for the collection came from the post-war period. At the same time, Christian Dior was showcasing his “New Look” in Paris in 1947. The “Beauty & Duty” collection showcased draped fabrics and cinched waistlines that bring the rebirth of Haute Couture to mind. |
| Video |
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| Jury statement | Although it may look rather subdued on the hanger, this collection by Flora Sophie Taubner and Lars Dittrich makes a striking impression on the model. Everything is just right: the theme, the concept, the clothing, the execution and their cooperation. Their work ticks all the right boxes and is the undisputed winner of 1st prize in the Student category. The theme, fashion that retains its allure even as it ages, is relevant and original: quite literally. These are two rare qualities in fashion today. These clothes act as a canvas for life, the patina increasing with every wear and adapting to the shape of the wearer. It’s a slice of personal history that you can wear on your own body, and a completely new approach to the decades-old discussion on sustainable fashion. Once more, valuable resources such as materials and labor are appreciated fully, prompting a greater awareness of existing clothing. The collection is full of tension. The tensions between minimalism and opulence. Modesty and elegance. Purity and labor. Simple materials and luxurious couture. It’s visionary and contemporary. The clothing’s natural beauty, distinctive silhouettes, perfect fit and exceptional handiwork, with not a single stitch out of place, are compelling. Lars Dittrich’s training in Clothing Technology and Flora Sophie Taubner’s in Bespoke Tailoring (for which she was awarded Best in the Year) is evident in the duo’s brilliant designs. The materials are intelligently chosen and reduced to the bare essentials to draw attention to the true value of the creation process. The concept is well-researched, intelligently argued and perfectly documented. It is an inspiring and motivating work. Flora Sophie Taubner and Lars Dittrich are able to work as a team and independently at the very highest level. They listen, seize ideas and make them a reality on their own and with great attention to detail. They are quick learners and go that famous extra mile whilst maintaining their calm, objectivity and precision. It is a great pleasure to work with them. Their every choice is perfect. Their winning work is a statement featuring all that is needed in fashion: beauty, poetry and future. Simply sublime! Judging panel member: Antonio Cristaudo, Global Marketing Development Manager, Pitti Uomo, Florence |
| Education | 7 th Semester / Burg Giebichenstein Kunsthochschule Halle Burg Giebichenstein University of Art and Design Halle Dunja Marija Kopi, Prof. Thomas Greis, Prof. Joachim Schielicke |
| Prize | Photo shoot with Franco P. Tettamanti, catalogue, exhibition, media relations, Mentoring program, Mentor: Joel S. Horwitz 2.500 Euro prize money |
| Contact | flora.taubner@gmx.net |
| Download | Web: www.sdbi.de/download/flora-taubner-web.zip Print: www.sdbi.de/download/flora-taubner-print.zip |
FASH 2016 Change / 27. June 2016
Lars Dittrich
| 1st Prize European Fashion Award – FASH 2016 Category Students |
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| Team | Flora Sophie Taubner Lars Dittrich |
| Beauty & Duty |
The “Beauty & Duty” womenswear collection focuses on the aesthetics of imperfection. It demonstrates how fashion can increase in value as it develops a patina. This offers a whole new approach to sustainable fashion. The aim of the collection is to help consumers achieve a deeper awareness of their clothing. The inspiration for the collection came from the post-war period. At the same time, Christian Dior was showcasing his “New Look” in Paris in 1947. The “Beauty & Duty” collection showcased draped fabrics and cinched waistlines that bring the rebirth of Haute Couture to mind. |
| Video |
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| Jury statement | Although it may look rather subdued on the hanger, this collection by Flora Sophie Taubner and Lars Dittrich makes a striking impression on the model. Everything is just right: the theme, the concept, the clothing, the execution and their cooperation. Their work ticks all the right boxes and is the undisputed winner of 1st prize in the Student category. The theme, fashion that retains its allure even as it ages, is relevant and original: quite literally. These are two rare qualities in fashion today. These clothes act as a canvas for life, the patina increasing with every wear and adapting to the shape of the wearer. It’s a slice of personal history that you can wear on your own body, and a completely new approach to the decades-old discussion on sustainable fashion. Once more, valuable resources such as materials and labor are appreciated fully, prompting a greater awareness of existing clothing. The collection is full of tension. The tensions between minimalism and opulence. Modesty and elegance. Purity and labor. Simple materials and luxurious couture. It’s visionary and contemporary. The clothing’s natural beauty, distinctive silhouettes, perfect fit and exceptional handiwork, with not a single stitch out of place, are compelling. Lars Dittrich’s training in Clothing Technology and Flora Sophie Taubner’s in Bespoke Tailoring (for which she was awarded Best in the Year) is evident in the duo’s brilliant designs. The materials are intelligently chosen and reduced to the bare essentials to draw attention to the true value of the creation process. The concept is well-researched, intelligently argued and perfectly documented. It is an inspiring and motivating work. Flora Sophie Taubner and Lars Dittrich are able to work as a team and independently at the very highest level. They listen, seize ideas and make them a reality on their own and with great attention to detail. They are quick learners and go that famous extra mile whilst maintaining their calm, objectivity and precision. It is a great pleasure to work with them. Their every choice is perfect. Their winning work is a statement featuring all that is needed in fashion: beauty, poetry and future. Simply sublime! Judging panel member: Antonio Cristaudo, Global Marketing Development Manager, Pitti Uomo, Florence |
| Education | 7 th Semester / Burg Giebichenstein Kunsthochschule Halle Burg Giebichenstein University of Art and Design Halle Dunja Marija Kopi, Prof. Thomas Greis, Prof. Joachim Schielicke |
| Prize | Photo shoot with Franco P. Tettamanti, catalogue, exhibition, media relations, Mentoring program, Mentor: Joel S. Horwitz 2.500 Euro prize money |
| Contact | lars_dittrich@gmx.de |
| Download | Web: www.sdbi.de/download/lars-dittrich-web.zip Print: www.sdbi.de/download/lars-dittrich-print.zip |
FASH 2015 Freedom / 6. July 2015
Julia Kleeblatt
| 1st Prize European Fashion Award – FASH 2015 Category Students |
|
| Kittel 2.0 |
A work coat reminds us of work, obligation and restriction. Yet a look into the archives of the Burg Giebichenstein University of Art and Design Halle shows that in the Twenties and Thirties it was widely used by the artists and designers on campus. On the occasion of the 100th anniversary of the “Burg” Julia Kleeblatt transformed the workcoat into modern jackets and coats. In her menswear collection “Kittel 2.0” she experimented with fibers and colors, played with length, space and proportion. The strict, straight shape of the workcoat with lapel collar, but¬ton tape, belt and large pockets is broken by delicate knit reminiscent of paper, some areas of the fabric have been printed or coated. Colors and prints were inspired by works of former mentors, such as the puppets by sculptor Gustav Weidanz or gelatin silver prints by Hans Finsler, the pioneer of “New Objectivity” in photography. |
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| Jury Statement | Julia Kleeblatt’s transformation of the lab coat is right on track with the zeitgeist. The subtle collection is colorful rather than flamboyant, diverse rather than overloaded, refreshing rather than loud. This energy is conveyed to the viewer. Julia Kleeblatt does not want to make a grand gesture, but designed unconventional fashion that seems rather familiar and natural, and thus retains its effect for a long time. At the same time her designs follow current trends with graphic design placement, printed pockets, transparent and metallic effects. Her sketches and collages, the color concept and the collection documentation are proof of a high level of independence and artistic quality. They convey the necessary professional information as well as emotions. Few are able to straddle this narrow edge between something new and familiar, creativity and commercialism. Julia Kleeblatt succeeded in showing what design should be in the best possible way. Ideal prerequisite for a career in the fashion industry. – Jury Member Torsten Hochstetter, Global Creative Director, Puma |
| Education | 6th Semester – Burg Giebichenstein Kunsthochschule Halle / Burg Giebichenstein University of Art and Design Halle Bianca Koczan, Prof. Thomas Greis, Prof. Joachim Schielicke |
| Prize | Photo shoot with Franco P. Tettamanti, catalogue, exhibition, media relations, Mentoring program, Mentor: Joel Horwitz 2,500 Euro prize money Six-month funded internship at the Puma headquarters. |
| Contact | mail@juliakleeblatt.com / www.juliakleeblatt.com |
| Download | Web: www.sdbi.de/download/julia-kleeblatt-web.zip Print: www.sdbi.de/download/julia-kleeblatt-print.zip |
FASH 2014 Rhythm / 11. January 2014
Anna Schröder
| 1st Prize European Fashion Award – FASH 2014 Category Students |
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| Team | Anna Schröder (Textil) Kaur R. Hensel (Fashion) |
| Sophisticated Grunge |
The collection “Sophisticated Grunge” is inspired by style icon Courtney Love, born Courtney Michelle Harrison. Twelve outfits for women and four for men illustrate the rhythmic interplay of star and human being, strength and weakness, sophistication and grunge. Asymmetric, twisted and proportional elements add a visual irritation to the simple silhouettes. The focus is on elaborately handcrafted and refined textile materials. Silk, linen or mohair weaves were created on hand- and jacquard looms. Graphics such as a wilting lily as a sign of life’s transience were applied either as screen print or hand-embroidery. Burnout technique, cyanotype or washes are other refinements used in the collection. The 34-piece collection is consistently elegant, yet delicate at the same time. A bold woman appears as a fragile, almost tragic figure. |
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| Jury Statement | Applying a great deal of virtuosity, experimentation and a lack of failure Anna Schröder and Kaur R. Hensel jointly developed their luxurious collection “Sophisticated Grunge”. An unusual and very successful team work comprising textile and fashion design, embodying the respect of each other’s know-how and skills. The result: exquisite and unique fabrics for haute couture reflecting a subtle sense of youth and irony despite echoes of traditional elements, such as Art Nouveau. The brilliant project plays with viewing patterns and expectations and thus questions the desire for bare skin. Intimate body areas, such as the breasts, are in focus without exposing them. Despite an explosion off 7 upgrade processes and 19 fabrics they learned that design also means selecting and rejecting. In essence: powerful, original, delicate and fresh. — Jury member Margareta van den Bosch, Creative Adviser, H & M – Hennes & Mauritz, Stockholm |
| Education | 6th Semester / Burg Giebichenstein – Hochschule für Kunst und Design Halle University of Art and Design Halle Prof. Bettina Göttke-Krogmann Prof. Thomas Greis, Prof. Joachim Schielicke |
| Prize | Photo shoot with Gregor Hohenberg, catalogue, fashion show, media relations 2,000 Euro prize money |
| Contact | schroeder-anna@gmx.net www.anna-schroeder.de |
| Download | www.sdbi.de/download/schroeder-hensel.zip |
FASH 2014 Rhythm / 11. January 2014
Kaur R. Hensel
| 1st Prize European Fashion Award – FASH 2014 Category Students |
|
| Team | Anna Schröder (Textil) Kaur R. Hensel (Fashion) |
| Sophisticated Grunge |
The collection “Sophisticated Grunge” is inspired by style icon Courtney Love, born Courtney Michelle Harrison. Twelve outfits for women and four for men illustrate the rhythmic interplay of star and human being, strength and weakness, sophistication and grunge. Asymmetric, twisted and proportional elements add a visual irritation to the simple silhouettes. The focus is on elaborately handcrafted and refined textile materials. Silk, linen or mohair weaves were created on hand- and jacquard looms. Graphics such as a wilting lily as a sign of life’s transience were applied either as screen print or hand-embroidery. Burnout technique, cyanotype or washes are other refinements used in the collection. The 34-piece collection is consistently elegant, yet delicate at the same time. A bold woman appears as a fragile, almost tragic figure. |
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| Jury Statement | Applying a great deal of virtuosity, experimentation and a lack of failure Anna Schröder and Kaur R. Hensel jointly developed their luxurious collection “Sophisticated Grunge”. An unusual and very successful team work comprising textile and fashion design, embodying the respect of each other’s know-how and skills. The result: exquisite and unique fabrics for haute couture reflecting a subtle sense of youth and irony despite echoes of traditional elements, such as Art Nouveau. The brilliant project plays with viewing patterns and expectations and thus questions the desire for bare skin. Intimate body areas, such as the breasts, are in focus without exposing them. Despite an explosion off 7 upgrade processes and 19 fabrics they learned that design also means selecting and rejecting. In essence: powerful, original, delicate and fresh. — Jury member Margareta van den Bosch, Creative Adviser, H & M – Hennes & Mauritz, Stockholm |
| Education | 6th Semester / Burg Giebichenstein – Hochschule für Kunst und Design Halle University of Art and Design Halle Prof. Bettina Göttke-Krogmann Prof. Thomas Greis, Prof. Joachim Schielicke |
| Prize | Photo shoot with Gregor Hohenberg, catalogue, fashion show, media relations 2,000 Euro prize money |
| Contact | kaur-hensel@gmx.de www.kaur-hensel.de |
| Download | www.sdbi.de/download/schroeder-hensel.zip |
FASH 2013 SEXes / 19. January 2013
Anet Schmieder
| 2nd Prize European Fashion Award FASH 2013 |
|
| Team | Anet Schmieder Magdalena Stark |
| Zwei Herzen schlagen, Ach! in meiner Brust. |
“Different though the sexes are, they intermix. In every human being a vacillation from one sex to the other takes place, and often it is only the clothes that keep the male and female likeness, while underneath the sex is the very opposite of what it is above.” In her novel “Orlando” Virginia Woolf describes the theme of the unisex collection “Zwei Herzen schlagen, Ach! in meiner Brust.” (Two hearts, alas, are dwelling in my breast” loosely based on Goethe). An androgynous creature between man and woman has always existed in the history of mankind; culminating in the desire to fuse together with the body of one’s beloved. Fashion – as well as pop music – is marked by the play with taboos and gender roles, particularly because they can lend even run-of-the-mill fashion a pervasive effect. Despite all their calculation the images have a subversive power. New role models are created in between provocation and fascination, amusement and aversion. Gender roles are shifted until they dissolve. The 28-piece collection illustrates this act of transition. |
| Jury Statement | Anet Schmieder and Magdalena Stark take many risks in their collection “Zwei Herzen schlagen, Ach! In meiner Brust” (Two hearts, alas, are dwelling in my breast” loosely based on Goethe). It embodies a challenging strength. They toy with the codes of sub-culture and social taboos in an excuberant fireworks display. On purpose. Today’s flood of information creates a hunger for intensity in us. Anet Schmieder and Magdalena Stark refuse to subscribe to transparency and quick categorization to tear us out of the randomness of the always new. They force us to take a stand. They are successful because the designs seem unique and familiar at the same time. Their customers are found in cities like London. The collection is very consistent and highly aesthetic despite the plethora of influences and colors. Such balance is proof of a high level of skill – also in styling. Their use of color and the variety of materials and finishing techniques is brilliant: padded, quilted, colored, printed, painted and opulent hand-embroideries. They provide the proof that you have to create radical impressions to be recognized as a designer. This is further enhanced by a very well written scientific documentation, and such a level of quality is a rare occurrence among most fashion designers. — Member of the Jury: Michael Sontag, Designer, Berlin |
| Education | Master University of Art and Design Halle Prof. Thomas Greis, Prof. Joachim Schielicke |
| Contact | mail@anetschmieder.com www.anetschmieder.com |
| Media | A Shaded View on Fashion: 3.2.2013: „European Fashion Award 2013 at ISPO – and the Winners are…“ |
FASH 2013 SEXes / 19. January 2013
Magdalena Stark
| 2nd Price European Fashion Award FASH 2013 |
|
| Team | Anet Schmieder Magdalena Stark |
| Zwei Herzen schlagen, Ach! in meiner Brust. |
“Different though the sexes are, they intermix. In every human being a vacillation from one sex to the other takes place, and often it is only the clothes that keep the male and female likeness, while underneath the sex is the very opposite of what it is above.” In her novel “Orlando” Virginia Woolf describes the theme of the unisex collection “Zwei Herzen schlagen, Ach! in meiner Brust.” (Two hearts, alas, are dwelling in my breast” loosely based on Goethe). An androgynous creature between man and woman has always existed in the history of mankind; culminating in the desire to fuse together with the body of one’s beloved. Fashion – as well as pop music – is marked by the play with taboos and gender roles, particularly because they can lend even run-of-the-mill fashion a pervasive effect. Despite all their calculation the images have a subversive power. New role models are created in between provocation and fascination, amusement and aversion. Gender roles are shifted until they dissolve. The 28-piece collection illustrates this act of transition. |
| Jury Statement | Anet Schmieder and Magdalena Stark take many risks in their collection “Zwei Herzen schlagen, Ach! In meiner Brust” (Two hearts, alas, are dwelling in my breast” loosely based on Goethe). It embodies a challenging strength. They toy with the codes of sub-culture and social taboos in an excuberant fireworks display. On purpose. Today’s flood of information creates a hunger for intensity in us. Anet Schmieder and Magdalena Stark refuse to subscribe to transparency and quick categorization to tear us out of the randomness of the always new. They force us to take a stand. They are successful because the designs seem unique and familiar at the same time. Their customers are found in cities like London. The collection is very consistent and highly aesthetic despite the plethora of influences and colors. Such balance is proof of a high level of skill – also in styling. Their use of color and the variety of materials and finishing techniques is brilliant: padded, quilted, colored, printed, painted and opulent hand-embroideries. They provide the proof that you have to create radical impressions to be recognized as a designer. This is further enhanced by a very well written scientific documentation, and such a level of quality is a rare occurrence among most fashion designers. — Member of the Jury: Michael Sontag, Designer, Berlin |
| Education | Master Burg Giebichenstein, Kunsthochschule Halle Prof. Thomas Greis, Prof. Joachim Schielicke |
| Contact | mail@magdalena-stark.com www.magdalena-stark.com |
| Media | A Shaded View on Fashion: 3.2.2013: „European Fashion Award 2013 at ISPO – and the Winners are…“ |
FASH 2011 Attention please!? / 6. February 2011
Marcel Lunkwitz
| 3rd Prize Graduates European Fashion Award FASH 2011 |
|
| Team | Marcel Lunkwitz Julia Müller |
| Jeder Tag ist ein kleines Leben |
„Jeder Tag ist ein kleines Leben.“ (Every day is a little life.) This witticism by Arthur Schopenhauer is the foundation of the menswear collection with the same name. The expression reflects today’s identity inflation due to the variety of genders, roles, groups, etc., as well as the mingling of reality and virtuality. It speaks of the danger to lose oneself and the chance to find |
| Jury Statement | The collection by Marcel Lunkwitz and Julia Müller impresses by offering a completely individual and fresh voice in the world of fashion. Instead of reflecting German purism the collection bursts with colours, shapes and materials. What seems to look a bit exaggerated on the hanger, looks perfect on an actual person, also thanks to great styling. A fashion style which will likely find a market in Japan. At the same time, the designers uncover interesting answers for a modern image of men. An attractive and strong collection with good external image, yet also a more sensitive side. Jury Member Marcel Herrig, Unicut Design Office, Shenzen/China |
| Education | Diplom/Bachelor Burg Giebichenstein – Hochschule für Kunst und Design Halle (University of Art and Design) Prof. Thomas Greis, Prof. Joachim Schielicke |
| Contact | info@cloudsacrossheadlines.com www.cloudsacrossheadlines.com |
FASH 2011 Attention please!? / 6. February 2011
Julia Müller
| 3rd Prize Graduates European Fashion Award FASH 2011 |
|
| Team | Marcel Lunkwitz Julia Müller |
| Jeder Tag ist ein kleines Leben |
„Jeder Tag ist ein kleines Leben.“ (Every day is a little life.) This witticism by Arthur Schopenhauer is the foundation of the menswear collection with the same name. The expression reflects today’s identity inflation due to the variety of genders, roles, groups, etc., as well as the mingling of reality and virtuality. It speaks of the danger to lose oneself and the chance to find |
| Jury Statement | The collection by Marcel Lunkwitz and Julia Müller impresses by offering a completely individual and fresh voice in the world of fashion. Instead of reflecting German purism the collection bursts with colours, shapes and materials. What seems to look a bit exaggerated on the hanger, looks perfect on an actual person, also thanks to great styling. A fashion style which will likely find a market in Japan. At the same time, the designers uncover interesting answers for a modern image of men. An attractive and strong collection with good external image, yet also a more sensitive side. Jury Member Marcel Herrig, Unicut Design Office, Shenzen/China |
| Education | Diplom/Bachelor Burg Giebichenstein – Hochschule für Kunst und Design Halle (University of Art and Design) Prof. Thomas Greis, Prof. Joachim Schielicke |
| Contact | info@cloudsacrossheadlines.com www.cloudsacrossheadlines.com |
FASH 2009 New Diversity / 1. February 2009
Wenke Müller
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Special Mention Graduates Works European Fashion Award FASH 2009 |
|
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Dreams of My Self |
1 / 4 – Photo: © Christin Losta/SDBI
1 / 4 – Photo: © Christin Losta/SDBI
Photo: © Christin Losta/SDBI
Photo: © Christin Losta/SDBI
Photo: © Christin Losta/SDBI
Ten profiles, ten images of womanhood, ten different “Träume vom Ich” (“Dreams of My Self”). Personal diversity contrasts with signature style: concerted and mature, muted rather than boisterous, with a hint of luxury and glamour from times past. The focus is on sophisticated craftsmanship and creating sensory stimulus for the skin; whether fashioned into a shirtdress from denim, a silk negligee, a leather biker jacket, or an evening gown with 140 organza blossoms. The materials stimulate contemplation and emotions. One single colour keeps the focus on fabric qualities and silhouettes: in the dark blue of the night we dream and rely more on sensations than sight. Manufactured on state-of-the-art, computer-aided knitting machines the collection’s overall fits like a second skin. Knitted darts, accented with a cable pattern, keep the garment in shape. |
|
Jury Statement |
Wenke Müller provided a very good interpretation of the theme “New Diversity”. Her collection mingles elegance with athleticism creating a concept with potential for many different combination options. Her image of women is self-confident and modern. Concept and design are skillfull, and a clear commitment to sumptuous materials and traditional craftsmanship. Unfortunately the quality of the documentation is not as high as that of the finished product. — Jury member Joachim Schirrmacher, Creative Consultant, Berlin |
| Education |
Diplomate Burg Giebichenstein – Hochschule für Kunst und Design Halle Prof. Thomas Greis, Prof. Joachim Schielicke |
| Contact | wenkemueller@gmx.de |
FASH 2006 Local – Global / 29. January 2006
Bianca Koczan
| 1st Prize European Fashion Award FASH 2006 |
|
| Clothing Factory |
“Clothing Factory” deals with the topic of men in blue as the uniform of the socialist worker milieu. A business model with responsible production in East Germany, interdisciplinary work structures, and a three-part collection for men and women were designed. The authentic ready-to-wear clothing is divided into “Gray” (subtle basics with intellectual character, which do justice to the requirements of profitable production and leave room for individual changes), “Print” as fanciful and eye-catching counterpoint as well as a bag and bandana collection. This is a clothing rooted in the local culture and shaped by a comprehensive concept, which reflects on what we experience as a newspaper and examines the system of fashion. An ironic manifesto. |
| Jury Statement |
Bianca Koczan won first prize by a wide margin. Her Master’s thesis “Clothing Factory” fulfills the objectives of the contest in an ideal way.
The starting point “work”, one of the most pressing problems of our time, was selected cleverly and strategically. The collection divided into three parts is already a very appealing idea. The seeming simplicity of work clothes as a type has been taken apart intelligently and ironically. As a result, she has created a very varied but stringent collection, which is rich in references. She not only masters the vocabulary of fashion impressively, but only speaks it with a new accent. Technique and design are implemented with a great deal of professionalism and perfection. Her interdisciplinary work with designers for textiles, accessories, graphics and photographs, something rarely seem in this extent, without relinquishing responsibility for the result is also praiseworthy. Her work is also extraordinary, because the structural changes in fashion are analyzed and discussed cleverly in the concept of newspaper documentation. The concept is far-reaching, conclusive, stimulating and exciting and demonstrates the rare but urgently required double-gift of visual and verbal force of expression. Ms. Koczan always maintains the necessary distrust of her own perception and interpretation in her search for subjective truth. She fights with her work against the widespread longing for security in that she compares the need for continuity, honesty and tradition with a powerful identity of that which is genuine, original and transparent. From this only seemingly naïve longing for one roots, the future grows for a very battered and often hysterical and elitist fashion industry Consistently with the above, Ms. Koczan designed a business model for the future, which takes production, communication and distribution into consideration. This complex work was created, because she not only wanted to reach people, but also to get them to act. She consciously follows Joseph Beuys in that she wants to “show people something, with which they can identify.” Ms. Koczan does not misunderstand design as superficial change as is so often the case, but instead as an expression of ethics and strategy. This pronounced and legitimate attitude shapes the complex coding of the products. Consequently, Ms. Koczan is in the tradition of the modern, in which design is not seen as solely an aesthetic expression, but always as a means of social, economic and ecological change too. With that, she demonstrate an intricate and very modern understanding of fashion. All of this is possible, because Ms. Koczan works self-assuredly and rooted to her native soil instead of striving for vain self-expression. This work is practical and innovative, interdisciplinary, extremely varied and powerful on a high international level in precisely the way, in which promising works are defined today. In all of this, Ms. Koczan is not set on the style shown in this work, but instead she demonstrates the potential of working out new paths again and again. Member of the Jury: Joachim Schirrmacher, Creative Consultant, Berlin |
| Education | Diplom 2005 Burg Giebichenstein – Hochschule für Kunst und Design Halle / University of Art and Design Halle Prof. Thomas Greis, Prof. Joachim Schielicke |
| Contact | biancakoczan@vverk.de www.vverk.de |
Danny Reinke
Mai Duong
Arnold Gevers