Julian Weth

Photo: © Franco P Tettamanti / SDBI 1 2 ... 5 ► Photo: © Franco P Tettamanti / SDBI Photo: © Franco P Tettamanti / SDBI 1 / 5 – Photo: © Franco P Tettamanti / SDBI Photo: © Franco P Tettamanti / SDBI Photo: © Franco P Tettamanti / SDBI

The catastrophic effects of the financial crisis and the wars against IS and in Ukraine form the starting point for “Ungehorsam” (Disobedience), a 13-piece men’s collection. This collection seeks to question how people behave in systems and the consequences of blind disobedience. The title comes from Oscar Wilde, who wrote: “Disobedience, in the eyes of anyone who has read history, is man’s original virtue.”
Decommissioned military clothing was deconstructed and interpreted using new silhouettes and materials including mesh, jersey, and wool fabrics—a procedure called “upcycling”. These overalls are reimagined with the dropped crotch of jodphur trousers and with newly constructed sleeves. New surfaces are also achieved using waterproofing, a variety of washes and abrasion with sandpaper and rotary tools. The urban look is topped off with baseball caps paired with silk scarves and sneakers.