1st Prize: European Fashion Award – FASH 2008of the Stiftung der Deutschen Bekleidungsindustrie (German Fashion Industry Foundation)
Melanie Gros
"For Square"
4th semester, Fachhochschule für Technik und Wirtschaft, Berlin (University of Applied
Sciences, Berlin)
4,000 euros, six-month paid internship at a company of the Otto Group
mellygros@gmx.de
www.teambruleberlin.de
www.fhtw-berlin.deA square forms the basis of this fall women’s wear collection.
Its objective is a cut without waste. Instead of adapting the pattern
to the curved body, "For Square" drapes squares on the body.
Approximately 20 percent of the cutting scrap is eliminated in this
way. "For Square" provides favorite pieces, which can still be worn in
10 years. In spite of their potential long
life, the silhouettes are based on current large-scale cuts that fall
straight. The skin color black (dyed in line with the strictest
directives) is classic, appropriate for the masses and chic. The
fabrics are from "fair trade" and come from organic cultivation in
Turkey. They vary between soft and warming single jerseys, robust twill
and voluminous knitwear.
Jury ReasonsAbout 20 percent waste is created during cutting despite the most
modern technology. Melanie Gros solved this often-overlooked problem.
Her concept of using rectangular materials to make clothes is very
demanding in its realisation. This is all the more reason to
praise both her aesthetically and functionally brilliant realisation of
this idea. You do not even suspect that the clothes are made of
rectangular pieces. And this is the case not just for one outfit, but
also for the complete collection; even pants were produced. The work is
so strong that it works for different occasions and with different
colors. Certainly: "Green is the new black", because after all black is
color that causes problems for
the environment. In spite of this, Melanie Gros achieved a good balance
between environment and reality. Black clothes have a higher rate of
acceptance, are sold correspondingly well and are worn for a long time.
The demanding task to design fashion in line with the needs of the
environment and social issues using one's one attitude was solved
independently and simply. And this was done as aclear industrial
design. This is an outstanding work, especially for a student in her
fourth
semester!
Jury Member Ulrike Okbay-Reichert, Head of Buying, Apparel, Otto, Hamburg2nd Prize: European Fashion Award – FASH 2008of the Stiftung der Deutschen Bekleidungsindustrie (German Fashion Industry Foundation)
Lauren Gilfillan, Laura Turner, Esther Muir
"Eco Pogue Mahone"
6th semester, Grays School of Art, Robert Gordon University, Aberdeen
2,000 euros
Six-month paid internship at Falke, Schmallenberg
Fabric voucher worth 500 euros and 100 euros travel expenses subsidy from Swiss Textiles
laura.turner@hotmail.co.uk
www.rgu.ac.uk/graysPogue Mahone is a Gaelic four-letter word. The womens’s wear
collection "Eco Pogue Mahone" demonstrates that the environment is not
a matter of no concern to us. It is composed of production waste of
precious "Tartans", the Scottish material with its clan patterns.
Instead of continuing to dump the waste at a landfill, it is woven and
sewn into a new material. The created clothing pieces are both
beautiful and environmentally friendly.
They remind you of a Chanel jacket instead of recycling fashion. The
unique jacket in military style is supplemented by a skirt made from a
"Blue Ramsay" tartan. The objective of the project is to emphasize the
work and craftsmanship, which this rough but stylish material
contains, and consequently to keep the history of Scotland alive.
Jury Reasons"Eco Pogue Mahone" is a collection with a strong story. The starting
point was well selected with waste cuttings of Scottish tartans.
Instead of throwing them away, they were processed in a unique way to
create new fabric. The collection demonstrates a high degree of
development ability. It was not only implemented technically very well,
but it also has great design power. The humorous interpretation
upvalues traditional material. It again appears young, fresh and
up-to-date. The work demonstrates a clear commitment to work-intensive
handicrafts and Scotland.
Jury Member Marcel Herrig, Unicut Design Limited, ShenZen, China
3rd Prize: European Fashion Award – FASH 2008of the Stiftung der Deutschen Bekleidungsindustrie (German Fashion Industry Foundation)
Frauke Buschmeyer
"The Crocodiles Lie in the Gaps"
Graduate, Hochschule für Künste Bremen (University of the Arts Bremen)
1,500 euros
Fabric voucher worth 500 euros and 100 euros travel expenses subsidy from Swiss Textiles
frauke07@fraukebuschmeyer.de
www.fraukebuschmeyer.de
www.hfk-bremen.deThe Master's thesis collection "The Crocodiles Lie in the Gaps" is
composed of favorite pieces for individualistic women between 20 and
40. They feel pleasant on the skin, and the person wearing it can build
up an emotional, imaginative and affectionate relation to them.
Favorite pieces are long-lasting, because they do not lose their originality after one season.
The carefree perspective of childhood, when everyday matters are
exciting, serves to achieve this goal. Four stories by a lion,
crocodile, penguin and polar bears inspired the illustrations, cuts,
colors and choice of material.
The work is also a search for a statement of one's own between
pronounced expressiveness and sensitive presentiments as well as the
balance between the design wishes and emotional needs of the women
wearing it.
Jury ReasonsFrauke Buschmeyer bets on avoidance of waste, the most effective way of
protecting the environment. The way of implementing her project was
worked out in an impressive manner.
The starting point was the observation that people like to wear
favorite pieces for many years. But how do you create favorite pieces?
She selected strongly emotional motifs as inspiration: children and
animals. The comparatively complex collection plays with the topic well
throughout without placing it in the forefront too much. It remains a
means to the end of
creating desirable fashion.
The collection has a very strong and new aesthetics; it is joyful and
humorous, young and elegant. This is not superficial fashion, but
instead self-confident design.
Frauke Buschmeyer obviously knows what she wants and how to do it. She
has a great dealof design skill and can give identity to a brand. But
not only her conceptual strengths and design skills should be praised,
but also her craft skills in implementing new patterns.
Jury Member Joachim Schirrmacher, Agency for Strategic Communications, Hamburg
Special Mention: European Fashion Award – FASH 2008of the Stiftung der Deutschen Bekleidungsindustrie (German Fashion Industry Foundation)
Sara Fromm, Ilona Zaytseva
"Symbiosis"
6th semester, Hochschule Pforzheim, Fakultät für Gestaltung (Pforzheim University of
Applied Sciences)
500 euros
Six-month paid internship at Schumacher, Mannheim
Fabric voucher worth 500 euros and 100 euros travel expenses subsidy from Swiss Textiles
sarfro@web.de
www.hs-pforzheim.deIndira Gandhi provides the motto for the this work: "There is no beauty
in even the most finest clothing if it comes with hunger and
infelcity." Consequently, the women’s wear collection "Symbiosis"
was developed from a combination of old and new. The basis is formed by
industrially manufactured knitwear, which were produced in line with
ecological and ethical guidelines. They are traditional in shape and
color, can be combined well with
one another, and consequently have a long wearing life. The details and
patterns come from second-hand clothing. In Germany alone,
approximately 300 million clothing pieces are discarded each year, but
which are still wearable. The symbiosis is created from the felting of
both materials. This produces the individualism, which customers often
want. In addition,
the collection concept can be adapted to current trends.
Jury ReasonsWhat can we do with the clothing, which we do not wear anymore? Sara
Fromm and Ilona Zaytseva have shown a good solution with the felting of
used clothing and accessories. They demonstrate a great deal of
consistency in their work. Regardless of whether color or material
selection, everything fits. Well done!
Jury Member, Joyce Thornton, Generation Now Editor, WGSN, LondonSpecial Mention: European Fashion Award – FASH 2008of the Stiftung der Deutschen Bekleidungsindustrie (German Fashion Industry Foundation)
Pia Heise
"In Fog"
Graduate, Burg Giebichenstein – Hochschule für Kunst und Design, Halle (Burg
Giebichenstein – University of Art and Design, Halle)
500 euros
Fabric voucher worth 500 euros and 100 euros travel expenses subsidy from Swiss Textiles
pi_ja@yahoo.de
www.burg-halle.deThe Master's thesis "The Artificiality of Civilized Life" raises
questions about our economic systems and what we need to be happy. It
does this apart from ideas influenced by the media and advertising.
Instead, it is a question of sharpening our senses. Then people might
become aware of the fact that behavior, which is appropriate for living
in a society and for the
environment, starts in our head. Only then are measures taken, which
really help people and the environment. On solution for this issue is
shown by the women’s wear collection "In Fog". It was implemented
using discarded German military parachutes as well as used leather and
fur. They get a second life in the collection. Existing bags,
backstitching and button holes, seams and ribbons, rings and linen as
well as traces of use are employed as
design elements.
Jury ReasonsThe collection "In Fog" by Pia Heise reminds us more of artworks than
recycling fashion. Consequently, they are part of the current
development of the coming together of design and art. The designed
collection is strong and independent.
Jury Member Susanne Fischer, Head of Marketing and Communications – ispo Group, Messe München, GmbH
Special Mention: European Fashion Award – FASH 2008of the Stiftung der Deutschen Bekleidungsindustrie (German Fashion Industry Foundation)
Pia Niewöhner
"Uni(Form)"
8th semester, Hochschule für Künste Bremen (University of the Arts Bremen)
500 euros
Fabric voucher worth 500 euros and 100 euros travel expenses subsidy from Swiss Textiles
pia.nie@web.de
www.hfk-bremen.deThe uni-sex collection "Uni[Form] Appliqué and Mechanisms of the
Gelsenkirchen Baroque" plays with everyday culture of the Ruhr area.
The cliché of "Gelsenkirchen Baroque" was created there. The
term has been used to make fun of the giant Wilhelmine furniture in
small workers' apartments since the beginning of the 1930s. But an
aesthetics was created on glutted bodies there, where all workers
appeared in the same black "uni[Form]" following a day's work in the
mines: the rabble and anti-social, fine-ribbed
material and jogging pants, unisize and 5er pack, Walmart and Primark.
Consequently, the design is limited to an (over)size with a
two-dimensional language of shapes. Curtain tapes regulate the size and
are a connective element. The materials are from stores such as "Moni's
Fabric Paradise", where a meter costs two euros. Printed "trimmings"
such as bags are a
parody on the fascination with brands – the dream of a better life.
Jury ReasonsDesign research takes place not only on paper, but also in practical
work as in other disciplines. Pia Niewöhner has taken a very
independent path with her work. Especially in times where it is almost
only a question of one more of the same this is very praiseworthy. In
spite of her investigating aesthetics, which are generally considered
tasteless, she created a strong collection with clear silhouettes and
proportions. It is harmonious and works well.
The restriction to only one size for both sexes is one answer for fashion more in tune with environmental protection.
Jury Member Marcel Herrig, Unicut Design Limited, ShenZen, China
Special Prize Fashion Theory: European Fashion Award – FASH 2008of the Stiftung der Deutschen Bekleidungsindustrie (German Fashion Industry Foundation)
Otto von Busch
"Dale Sko Hack"
Ph.D. student, Göteborg University
500 euros
otto@kulturservern.se
www.selfpassage.org
www.gu.seThe Dale Sko Hack project aims to reformulate the way we understand
fashion production – beyond "Fair Fashion"?. A word such as
"eco-fashion"? is in itself a contradiction that cannot be solved. It
is more a question of renewing design and fashion (as it is one of the
major forces in identity production as well as our economy) by hacking
the operating system of
fashion, tuning it, but keeping the power on! "Hacking"? in
manufacturing is creating a wider interface to the design process for
workforce knowledge and craftsmanship, with the help of non-linear
participation from the factory workmen, so that each product becomes
unique.
This requires a new understanding of design, including of design
management. The project was run at Dale Sko factory in Norway together
with six Norwegian fashion designers.
Jury ReasonsOtto von Busch does something that only happens rarely in fashion; he
reflects and shows ideas for solutions. He puts the complete fashion
world into question in his work. He did not do this to negate it, but
instead to renew it. Above all, he poses the right questions. This is
difficult, because you must not only now the system in detail, but you
also need a pronounced sense of perception and interpretation skills.
The quality of a designer is based
on these factors. And they are decisive for the future. Work is
conducted all too often in the hectic world of fashion on irrelevant
problems, indeed according to all rules of art, but to no purpose in
the end.
His work should also be highly praised, because dissertations in the
area of fashion theory – in the framework of which the
distinguished project was created – are very rare. But it is
decisive for reflections to come from fashion itself and not to leave
interpretations to other disciplines.
Jury Member Joachim Schirrmacher, Agency for Strategic Communications, Hamburg