Michael Court
1st Prize European Fashion Award – FASH 2010
of the Stiftung der Deutschen Bekleidungsindustrie (German Fashion Industry Foundation)
„The Strength of Silence“Electronic gadgets become a shackle; networking becomes an addiction.
We are constantly inundated by radio waves and information, noise and
dissonance. We live many virtual lives, yet only have one real life.
Strict rites of silence – whether tea ceremony, the art of
swordplay, or, as shown here, calligraphy – help guide the
spirit. Body and soul find structure and energy – they grow; even
excel. Inner calmness begins to unfold – though sometimes it
begins with a bang. The concept collection “The Strength of
Silence” provides space for pure, inner calmness. Sheltered and
free of any compulsion. All garments are for men and women. The
individual pieces can be combined as desired. They are pure and free of
distraction. Black and white.
Jury ReasonsWhether fashion, illustrations, or blind contour drawings: Michael
Court’s poetic designs enchant at first glance. Though Michael
Court worked on his design in the 4th semester, one can already
recognize a very strong personality. Michael Court’s answer to
the European Fashion Award FASH 2010’s theme of
“Privacy” is definitely unique; he trusts his subjective
view of the world, and can substantiate and classify it socially. He
develops a clear concept, and impresses with high-quality and aesthetic
execution: imaginative prints, playful use of volume, or perfect cuts
– suitable for men and women alike. Anyone who wears these
flowing pieces will instantly understand the meaning of
“Privacy”. The voluminous elements are so well designed
that an area of instant calm descends on you. Michael Court’s
designs have depth, reflecting his cited knowledge of Japanese culture,
as well as the courage to deal with a very personal issue. Michael
Court wants to infuse new life into fashion without masquerading
– and allow the wearer to make his/her own decisions.
The quality of all elements – perception, concept, design,
tailoring, illustration, language – is absolutely exceptional.
Michael Court accomplished something very rare these days: serious, yet
natural-appearing fashion. We cannot pay him any higher compliment.
Jury Member Ivonne Fehn, Fashion Director Süddeutsche Zeitung Magazin, MunichEducation4th Semester, Hochschule für Künste Bremen (University of the Arts Bremen)
Prof. Kai Lehmann
Birgit Brockbals
2nd Prize – European Fashion Award – FASH 2010
of the Stiftung der Deutschen Bekleidungsindustrie (German Fashion Industry Foundation)
„internal = external“Design begins with perception. For Birgit Brockbals perception begins
with questions: Do you have time for me today? Where have all the jobs
gone? Is leisure time everything? When does your train leave? Why are
people so discontent? Can I withstand the pressure to perform? Is
Grandpa feeling better? The collection ”internal =
external” breaks through the borders between intimacy and public
life, between what we are and what we pretend to be. Deformation of the
silhouette creates a new access to one’s counterpart: changeable
and versatile; fragile and strong; confident and open for new
experiences. The asymmetric silhouettes were modelled on mannequins.
Contrasts, such as plastic and crystalline, soft and stable, fabrics
such as wool velour, cotton satin, or wool jersey shape the
collection’s image and offer a feeling of security. The wearer
know she can take chances: internal is the new external.
Jury ReasonsThe very personal questions in Birgit Brockbals’ concept show
clearly that she delved deeply into social issues. This strong approach
is an important quality; it helps Birgit Brockbals express her themes.
Her collection’s visually very strong show piece, reminiscent of
a puffy pillow, provides an initial, very conceivable response to the
motto of the European Fashion Award FASH 2010, “Privacy”.
Yet Birgit Brockbals does not stop with effects. Her designs impress
with a compelling interplay of volume, body, and silhouette, as well as
with a high degree of creative sensibility. Her collection cleverly
keeps the balance intact between spectacular show piece and wearable
fashion.
The cuts and patterns work on the body, despite all experiments. Shirts
and leggings, to be worn in layers under the dresses, allow the wearer
to create her own combinations. The photo documentation of the
elaborate design and finishing process shows very well how Birgit
Brockbals approached her work and developed her concepts step by step.
This high degree of craftsmanship is rare in our times. Her colours and
materials are well-selected. This personal and professional quality of
development applies to all parts of her presentation.
Jury member Joachim Schirrmacher, Agency for Strategic Communications, Hamburg
EducationBachelor, Akademie Mode & Design (Academy for Fashion & Design), Hamburg
Lecturer: Susanne Müller-Elsner
André Amorim
3rd Prize – European Fashion Award – FASH 2010
of the Stiftung der Deutschen Bekleidungsindustrie (German Fashion Industry Foundation)
„Hello, Grandma!“The cultural ability to speak a special language with the help of
fashion defines status in today’s society. Everyone under 30
years old tries to look more individual than anyone else – an
explosion of perspectives. All has become a part of the fashion
community. „The omnipresence of fashion and the uniformity
despite all that individualism inspired me to exclude everything trendy
from my project. Instead, I took a look into my grandmother’s
closet. I found diamond patterns, coarse fabrics, pleated skirts, many
aprons and black fringed kerchiefs. In my women’s collection
’Hello, Grandma!’ I combined these conservative elements
with the elitist reality. The clothes tell stories like my
grandmother’s wrinkled face in the window.”
Jury Reasons“Hello, Grandma!”, the work of André Amorim, is
gutsy, fresh, and exciting. He is the only one who deals with the
generation gap in his project submitted to the European Fashion Award
FASH 2010, entitled “Privacy”. It is touching how
André Amorim uses the very personal history of his own
grandmother as an inspiration. André Amorim derives progressive,
fashionable solutions with new and young details, proportions and
patterns. The complicated cuts are impressive when seen on a body as
well as on the catwalk. The tailoring is exceptional; accessories such
as the shawl perfectly complement the outfits.
Jury member Marcel Herrig, Unicut Design Office, Shenzen/China
Education8th Semester, Escola Superior de Artes Aplicadas de Castelo Branco, Portugal
Lecturer: Brigida Ribeiros
Marieke-Sophie Schmidt
3rd Prize – European Fashion Award – FASH 2010
of the Stiftung der Deutschen Bekleidungsindustrie (German Fashion Industry Foundation)
„Mimikry“People feel they have to keep up appearances and save face in public.
Therefore we accept conformity and follow conventions. Dress codes
– whether in a respectable suit, chic evening gown, or casual
jeans – further cultivate conformance. Yet, dress codes can also
act as armour for privacy. The womenswear collection
“Mimikry” features an internal as well as an external side.
The business dress offers protection and security. Materials are
strong, firm, and rigid. Black represents power, respectability, and
anonymity. Integrated armour elements each contain another, private
piece of fashion. It can be unfolded at any time. The roomy, soft
garments make the wearer feel free, individual, and unconstrained. Blue
represents longing and freedom, pink embodies our flashy and excessive
side. The truly private part of us is in our heads not worn on our
bodies.
Jury ReasonsMarieke-Sophie Schmidt takes on a cliché that seems to be the
golden thread uniting all concepts submitted to the European Fashion
Award FASH 2010 with the theme “Privacy”: the strong
segregation between the private and public sphere, increasingly
considered threatening. Marieke-Sophie Schmidt created a design with
impressive stringency. Details, such as a belt acting as armour, and
containing private garments at the same time, are remarkable. This
armour is
reminiscent of protective wear for motorcyclists and designs by
Vivienne Westwood at the same time. Marieke-Sophie Schmidt’s
young aesthetic fashion is relevant, modern, natural, and has a sense
of humour.
Jury member Johan Buskqvist, Head of Design Adidas Originals, Herzogenaurach
Education5th Semester, Hochschule für Künste Bremen (University of the Arts Bremen)
Prof. Kai Lehmann
Selena Regenfelder
Special Mention – European Fashion Award – FASH 2010
of the Stiftung der Deutschen Bekleidungsindustrie (German Fashion Industry Foundation)
„Born to Blaze“We are free, yet fragile. The digitalization of our everyday life opens
up completely new opportunities. At the same time, we are affected by
assimilation anxiety caused by globalization, multi-tasking, egomania,
and the erosion of morals. Omnipotence is followed by helplessness. The
desire for a feeling of sanctuary, safety and security, and genuine
values grows. Priorities shift from quantity to quality, from material
to immaterial values. The women’s collection “Born to
Blaze” wants to kindle a flame to light up the wearer’s
personality. Light, as a sign for the energy and power hidden in all of
us. The garments are geared to impart security and power, and boost
confidence. They help the wearer to express her inner strength. The
collection purposely does not use any technical solutions, only
luminescent materials. The knit fabric, some of it double-layered and
felted, was personally developed and hand-made.
Jury ReasonsSelena Regenfelder decided to concentrate on a strong and simple
concept for the European Fashion Award FASH 2010 competition, under the
motto “Privacy”: fluorescent materials set the
wearer’s personality aglow. The strength is in this reduction.
The quality of the double-layer knit is impressive. Selena Regenfelder
moves beyond designing a look by asking society to change, expressed by
her collection “Born to blaze”. This could be the
foundation of a movement to create
a new type of fashion.
Tobias Gröber, Chairman Stiftung der Deutschen Bekleidungsindustrie, Munich
EducationBachelor, Kunstuniversität Linz / Schloß Hetzendorf – University for Art and Industrial Design
Linz / Fashion Institute Vienna, Austria
Lecturer: Yella Hassel