
Marcel Lunkwitz, Julia Müller
„Where the clouds are like headlines“
1st Prize Students Works – European Fashion
Award – FASH 2009 of the Stiftung der Deutschen Bekleidungsindustrie
(German Fashion Industry Foundation) Freedom and
festivals or routine and airports? Fashion or simple clothes? Marcel Lunkwitz
and Julia Müller did their research and made a
decision: choose both. They created a hybrid fashion. The reason
is simple: the two designers uncovered a new kind of male image: open-minded, innovative,
emotional, and masculine. Men, who want to express their personality with the
help of fashion,
yet are overwhelmed by the complexity of the fashion market. Men, who do not
want to look as if
hiding behind a mask, and be judged as ridiculous or effeminate. The collection
is simultaneously
elegant and youthful, playful and defined, powerful and sensitive, innovative
and down-to-earth,
colourful yet not gaudy. Most of the fabrics are refined with silkscreen
prints, crash, pleats, or
embroidery. The classic tailcoat was the inspiration for the soft, flowing
lines of the eleven
outfits. Each look has its own, independent personality. Together, they can be
combined into a new kind
of liberated, poetic lifestyle.
Jury Reasons Marcel Lunkwitz and Julia Müller
did not shy away from taking great risks with their design. That alone
should be highly commended! Their research expresses curiosity, a flair for
discovery, and a very
personal outlook. The result is a convincing interpretation of a new male image.
The finished products in
the playful collection with charming contrasts boast consistently high quality.
The transposition
of a tailcoat pattern to streetwear was not ony daring, but very accomplished. Styling, colour
concept, patterns, material selection and refinement are innovative and
distinguish themselves thanks to their professionalism as well as knit quality.
A brilliant achievement both in concept and
realization!
Jury member
Wolfgang König, Head Buyer Loden-Frey
Education
6th
Semester, Burg Giebichenstein – University
of Art and Design Halle
Prof. Thomas Greis, Prof. Joachim Schielicke
Prize 2.000
Euro
Fabric
voucher worth 2.000 euros from Swiss Textile Federation
Contact
info@cloudsacrossheadlines.com www.cloudsacrossheadlines.com Ilona Zaytseva
Hoolifans – New Diversity of being a man
2nd Prize Students Works – European Fashion
Award – FASH 2009 of the Stiftung der Deutschen Bekleidungsindustrie
(German Fashion Industry Foundation) Ilona Zaytseva’s work questioned the collective
role of modern men. Rather than focusing on the image of
the caring father, the design concept digs deep into the culture and mindset of
hooligans and their
inclination towards violence. These men generally lead a completely acceptable,
socially integrated
life during the week; yet come the weekend, they give free reign to their wild
side. These men,
between the ages of 14 and 40, dress in rather unremarkable, yet prestigious,
brand-name fashions,
rendering them invisible to police, yet clearly recognizable to other
hooligans. The collection
“Hoolifans – New Diversity of being a man” expresses these characteristics with
the help of
transparent and non-transparent fabrics. The colour palette ranges from black
(signifying menace) and
grey (invisibility) to blue as an accent. Fabrics are made to appear more
aggressive by hardening
and coating the materials. Stones and slingshots are accessories. The
collection also includes
designs for women, illustrating their role in this sub-culture.
Jury Reasons
Ilona Zaytseva was brave when she selected
“Hoolifans” as the theme for her entry. The highquality and
independent conversion of her subject into design is inspiring. The
sophisticated implementation
is impeccable, the details are precisely to the point. The very professional presentation
of a clear-cut design concept and its commercial implementation are the
earmarks of a talented
designer. The result is apparel ready to be sold. Ilona Zaytseva,
who was among the
winners of
the 2008 European Fashion Awards, has definitely evolved.
Jury member
Marcel Herrig, Unicut Design Office
Education
8th
Semester, Pforzheim University of Applied
Sciences, Prof. Johann Stockhammer
Prize 1.500
Euro
Fabric
voucher worth 1.000 euros from Swiss Textile Federation
Contact
ilona.zaytseva@gmail.com
Mariane Musek
Der Weg zum Glück (The Quest for Hapines)
1st Prize Graduates Works – European Fashion
Award – FASH 2009 of the Stiftung der Deutschen Bekleidungsindustrie
(German Fashion Industry Foundation) Fortuna
et felicitas – can we really live happily ever after? Do we have a right to
happiness, or is it just a
privilege we may enjoy during brief spans of our lifetime? Can money or a
fulfilling occupation
bring us happiness? Where is our quest for happiness taking us? Marianne Musek reflected
on her collection “Der Weg zum Glück” (“The Quest
for Happiness”) while on a personal pilgrimage.
A pilgrim on the road to Santiago
needs function more than fashion. Nonetheless,
function is
in fashion. This determination was the starting point for this collection of
traditional attire and
performance sportswear. Traditional costume elements symbolise our yearning for
faith, tradition,
and the simple life. Athletic wear signifies physical wellbeing, the desire to
be active and vital.
Loden jacket versus running leggings: contrasting style elements like these
cleverly express the
dichotomy affecting today’s generation.
Jury Reasons The
positive vibes of the very autonomous collection “Der Weg
zum Glück” (“The Quest for Happiness”)are
instantly noticeable. At the same time, it is an exacting, demanding, and
focused fashion
collection. It is based on a special talent for observation, a flair for
trends, and a wide spectrum of
professional know-how by Marianne Musek. The concept is strong and
impressive. A variety of
influences is cleverly combined into a consistent, calm, and clean overall
impression.
Whether
athletic or elegant, technical materials, or traditional elements; Marianne Musek’s signature
is a well-adjusted balance. The strong and modern aesthetic is exceptional and
balanced. Even the
sportswear-oriented items from her collection are suitable for e.g. visiting a
vernissage. The
craftsmanship is impressive; it is clear that the designer has a passion for
production and refinement
methods. The highly
professional character of the collection is also evident in the extremely
comprehensible and
well-written documentation, as well as in the Mood Board, which combined poetry
and data.
The
personal involvement with the topic is transparent. An exceptional piece of
work!
Jury member
Jean Kress, Head of Design Quiksilver Europe
Education
Diplomate, Berlin University
of the Arts
Prof.
Stephan Schneider
(concept), Prof. Dr. Walter Scheiffele (theory)
Prize 3.000
Euro
six-month
paid internship at Craft, Borås, Schweden
Contact
marianne.musek@yahoo.de Nicole Manz
Cocooned Solitude
2nd Prize Graduates Works – European Fashion
Award – FASH 2009 of the Stiftung der Deutschen Bekleidungsindustrie
(German Fashion Industry Foundation) The
diversification of our society reveals plenty of opportunities. Yet this
freedom and versatility can also
induce angst, assimilation anxiety, and enforced mobility. The human desire for
safety, security,
and shelter intensifies. Individuals become more focused on introspection,
retreat from the public and
reduce social activities. The contrast of “cocooning” is represented in the
women’s collection “Die Einsamkeit im Kokon – wenn Geborgenheit gefangen
hält” (“Cooconed Solitude – when safety
keeps you imprisoned”).
The five
outfits create an emotional, mobile retreat. The designs draw their power from
the observation
that in these times we always look for shelter even while in motion, while
smoking, reading,
talking on the phone, listening to music. Hands look for protection, or are in
a defensive position,
arms are folded, legs crossed. The design adopts these habits and transposes
them into excess
length, overlaps, and ribbons. Voluminous hiding places are created with the
help of
gathered
and draped material sections, extremely high collars or hoods. Knit fabrics
offer warmth and thus
represent safety. Extremely tight armholes or the very low cut of the harem
pants symbolise
chains. Asymmetric elements represent ambivalence. Fashion that helps us
understand our
everyday life.
Jury Reasons Nicole Manz developed her theme through
personal observation and experience. It was a clever move to be
sensitive to the requirements of others. The creative concept itself as well as
its realization
are brilliant: from superb patterns to rich details. Everything has a precise
foundation and
explanation. This high level of quality was also evident in the documentation.
Jury member
Martin Leuthold,
Art Director Jakob Schlaepfer
Education
Diplomate, Niederrhein University of Applied Sciences,
Mönchengladbach
Prof.,StA, Dipl.-Des., Renate Schmitt, Prof.,Dipl.-Des.,
Jutta Wiedemann
Prize 2.000
Euro
Fabric
voucher worth 1.500 euros from Swiss Textile Federation
Contact
nicole_manz@gmx.de Adrian Sommerauer
London, Heimat #3
3rd Prize Graduates Works – European Fashion
Award – FASH 2009 of the Stiftung der Deutschen Bekleidungsindustrie
(German Fashion Industry Foundation) Photos of a
rainy, gloomy London
morning from a kitchen window gave the inspiration: the atmosphere
was rife with the aura of a man who had overslept, grabbed the next-best pile
of clothing,
and headed out into the crowded, noisy streets feeling out of sorts. The
melancholy, dark tone and
material selection of this elegant, yet rather delicate men’s collection held
in a blue-grey colour
scheme relates that sometimes you feel at home in the unknown, while feeling
lost in familiar
places. Shiny surfaces, as if wet by rain (silk, nylon, chintzed linen, washed
wool) contrast with cotton
reminiscent of flowery bed linens. Pyjamas represent the contrasting moods of
the designs,
balanced by classic tailoring and iconic oversized outerwear, such as a bomber
jacket. The choice of
elaborate materials, treatments, and finishes, such as invisible hems,
embroidery, or handknitted elements,
results in a deliberate manipulation of the boundaries of traditional menswear, and creates
fashions that are as pleasing to look at as they are to wear.
Jury Reasons The
consistent men’s collection by Adrian Sommerauer is not only very
professional but also distinguishes
itself thanks to its creative overall concept. The selection of subtle colors
and luxurious
materials also emphasizes the extraordinary quality. The designs’ romantic
story, transposed
step by step into the garments, is impressive. Adrian Sommerauer’s
design power in the playing
field of men’s fashions, and its details, is more than evident. Exceptional
craftsmanship turned the
technically sophisticated concept into reality. Th style is convincing, the
collection is balanced
and yet full of excitement. The result is a men’s collection that is very easy
to wear, yet
makes a
clear statement. An important signal for the industry!
Jury member
Doreen Schulz, c.neeon
Education
Master in
Fashion Menswear, Royal College of Art,
London
Ike Rust, Senior
Menswear Tutor (concept), Juliet Ash, Senior
Tutor in Fashion Critical and Historical
Studies (theory)
Prize 1.000
Euro
Contact
as@adriansommerauer.com www.adriansommerauer.com Wenke Müller
Dreams of My Self
Special Mention Graduates Works – European
Fashion Award – FASH 2009 of the Stiftung der Deutschen Bekleidungsindustrie
(German Fashion Industry Foundation) Ten
profiles, ten images of womanhood, ten different “Träume vom Ich” (“Dreams of
My Self”). Personal
diversity contrasts with signature style: concerted and mature, muted rather
than boisterous,
with a hint of luxury and glamour from times past. The focus is on sophisticated craftsmanship
and creating sensory stimulus for the skin; whether fashioned into a shirtdress
from denim, a
silk negligee, a leather biker jacket, or an evening gown with 140 organza
blossoms. The materials
stimulate contemplation and emotions. One single colour keeps the focus on
fabric qualities
and silhouettes: in the dark blue of the night we dream and rely more on
sensations than sight.
Manufactured on state-of-the-art, computer-aided knitting machines the
collection’s overall fits like a
second skin. Knitted darts, accented with a cable pattern, keep the garment in
shape.
What
appears to be a loose moss stitch is actually the reverse side of a loop
stitch. The “Träume vom Ich”
collection embodies fun and discovery, perfection and order, sensuality and
economy; inviting us
to experience a way of life instead of just clothing.
Jury Reasons Wenke Müller provided a very good interpretation
of the theme “New Diversity”. Her collection mingles
elegance with athleticism creating a concept with potential for many different
combination options.
Her image of women is self-confident and modern. Concept and design are
skillfull, and a clear
commitment to sumptuous materials and traditional craftsmanship.
Unfortunately
the quality of the documentation is not as high as that of the finished
product. Jury member
Joachim Schirrmacher, Agency for Strategic
Communications, Hamburg
Education
Diplomate,
Burg Giebichenstein – University of Art and Design Halle
Prof. Thomas Greis, Prof. Joachim Schielicke
Prize 500
Euro, six-month paid internship at Akris, St.Gallen, Schweiz
Contact
wenkemueller@gmx.de More information
www.sdbi.de
Press
Contact For more
information, award winner contact data and image material, please contact:
Joachim Schirrmacher
Head of
Project Management/Advisory Board Chairman
Stiftung der Deutschen Bekleidungsindustrie
T +49 (0) 40 25 31 88 60
schirrmacher@sdbi.de